{
    "summary": {
        "title": "skirt; textile; ei"
    },
    "identifier": [
        {
            "accession_number": "2003.283",
            "type": "accession number",
            "value": "2003.283",
            "primary": true
        },
        {
            "note": [
                {
                    "value": "E76.19 WAS CHANGED BY Spittler, Ute ON 2003-06-02"
                }
            ],
            "source": "Acquisitions",
            "type": "entry number",
            "value": "E76.19"
        },
        {
            "type": "Horniman laboratory number",
            "value": "0"
        }
    ],
    "loan": {
        "value": "N"
    },
    "description": [
        {
            "type": "catalogue description",
            "value": "A woman's skirt made of home grown and handspun cotton and dyed with vegetable dyes.  The textile is made in two sections and sewn together at one selvedge; one section is the mirror image of the other.  The cloth is mostly warp faced ikat.  [The patterning is described as it was woven (as stripes) rather than as worn (as bands).]    There are two solid blue stripes and the main ikat stripe comprises undyed warp ends on a red ground.  The motif  is called  'kumeda' and means 'commander'.  The narrow black and white pattern, known as 'raja bunga', is created with a floating warp and  occurs three times in each of the two sections of the textile.  The dyes used are indigo (blue\/black), morinda citrifolia (red) and turmeric (yellow).  [See original descriptions 1 + 2 for further details.]",
            "primary": true
        },
        {
            "date": [
                {
                    "earliest": 2003,
                    "value": "2003-06-02",
                    "latest": 2003,
                    "primary": true
                }
            ],
            "historical": true,
            "source": "field notes written by Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve",
            "type": "original description",
            "value": "Ei raja, habe kumeda, hubi ae, wini Migi. Handspun cotton, natural dyes (indigo [black], morinda citrifolia [red] and tumeric [yellow]). Edges red at middle seam. Raja stripes are of the type raja bunga (10 threads: 5x2). Cotton is of the type wengu meku (lat: gossypium hirsutum). (See Duggan, 2001:31). Dim: L: 171cm (weft: 85 cem), l: 65cm. Weaver and Seller of the piece: Bendelina Buki, alias Ina Nara Beni Wila.  The main motif kumeda means 'commandeur' and was created (by the wife of the Raja of Savu) to remember a Dutch official. It was restricted to the raja's family. Ina Nara belongs to the same wini as the wife of the last Raha of Savu and often was commissioned to weave sarongs for her. She is descendant of the fetor of Mesara, thus was\/is entitled to the motif. Now all women of wini Migi are entitled to weave and wear this motif. (see Duggan 2001: 44-45). Ina Nara Bani planted the cotton seeds used for this piece in 1997. In 1999 she had harvested enough cotton to start spinning. Spinning process, done in the evening, lasted until 2001 where she did ikat and dyeing. She used the same type of cotton for the warp and the weft. The weaving was completed by mid 2002. She needed 4 hie of cotton for the plain warp threads (medi ae and roa) 4 hie for hebe and juli, 1 hie for lara (yellow threads), 1 hie for kelutu. She needed 8 hie for the weft (see 6). Weft threads were doubled. In order to obtain a dark indigo colour, the dye process lasted a month, soaking and drying the threads once a day. Before dyeing in morinda, Ina Nara Beni soaked the threads in crushed nuts of the nitas tree (lat: sterculia foetida). Then soaked the threads in crushed roots of kebo hida (lat: morinda citrifolia) mixed with ashes, twigs of luba and water. The process was repeated every day for a month, new roots being crushed everyday."
        },
        {
            "date": [
                {
                    "earliest": 2003,
                    "value": "2003-06-02",
                    "latest": 2003,
                    "primary": true
                }
            ],
            "source": "field notes written by Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve",
            "type": "original description",
            "value": "Ina Nara Beni measures the width of her weaving using the distance between her thumb and opposite small finger, called ega, Bah. S. (or jinkal, Bah. Ind.). For a sarong the width (weft) on the loom is 4 to 5 ega\/jinkal, for a loincloth, 3 ega\/jinkal. Ina Nara Beni is a master weaver (Beni mane menenu). Her weavings are very tight. In my opinion she is less skillful for dyeing (blurring). A master weaver is more respected in the community than a master dyer (Beni pelo). Women share the knowledge for dyeing, others in ikating or weaving. But unlike other islands (Sumba for example) this is not necessary. Women of the ruling classes commissioned pieces from master weavers who were not necessary from the same wini or from the same hubi. For this reason sarongs with restricted motifs of one wini\/hubi can be found with the earmark at the middle seam from another hubi. The sarong is folded according to the rules. See photo (See Duggan 1997: 68)"
        },
        {
            "date": [
                {
                    "earliest": 2003,
                    "value": "2003-06-02",
                    "latest": 2003,
                    "primary": true
                }
            ],
            "source": "Longhurst, Sem",
            "type": "detailed description",
            "value": "A woman's skirt made of home grown and handspun cotton and dyed with vegetable dyes.  The textile's maker is Bendelina Buki, alias Ina Nara Beni Wila, a master weaver. The cloth is made in two sections on a backstrap loom.  Two lengths are sewn together at one selvedge; one section is the mirror image of the other.  The fabric is mostly warp faced ikat, with ends doubled in the weft.   [The patterning is described as it was woven (as stripes) rather than as worn (as bands).]   At one selvedge (at the top and bottom of the skirt) is a broad ikat stripe, made up of three repeating patterns.   A circular motif,  of undyed warp ends on a red ground is bisected by a predominantly brown stripe.  Each pattern is separated by two yellow stripes.  Beside this ikat section is a  solid blue stripe.  Next is the main ikat stripe, of undyed warp on a red ground.  The motif,  called  'kumeda',  means 'commander' and was created (by the wife of the Raja of Savu) to remember a Dutch official.  The remaining half of this section comprises three stripes of a smaller-scale version of the circular motif alternating with a narrower stripe, which includes a  black and white pattern.  This is created with a floating warp and is known as 'raja bunga'.   The dyes used are indigo (blue\/black), morinda citrifolia (red) and turmeric (yellow).  [See original descriptions 1 + 2 for further details.]"
        },
        {
            "date": [
                {
                    "earliest": 2003,
                    "value": "2003-06-02",
                    "latest": 2003,
                    "primary": true
                }
            ],
            "source": "Longhurst, Sem",
            "type": "object description",
            "value": "A woman's skirt made of home grown and handspun cotton and dyed with vegetable dyes.  The textile is made in two sections and  sewn together at one selvedge; one section is the mirror image of the other.  The cloth is mostly warp faced ikat.  [The patterning is described as it was  woven (as stripes) rather than as worn (as bands).]    There are two solid blue stripes and the main ikat stripe comprises undyed warp ends on a red ground.  The motif  is called  'kumeda' and means 'commander'.  The narrow black and white pattern,  known as 'raja bunga',  is created with a floating warp and  occurs three times in each of the two sections of the textile.  The dyes used are indigo (blue\/black), morinda citrifolia (red) and turmeric (yellow).  [See original descriptions 1 + 2 for further details.]"
        }
    ],
    "language": [
        "eng"
    ],
    "collection": "Anthropology",
    "type": {
        "sub_type": [
            "general"
        ],
        "scope": "WHOLE",
        "base": "object"
    },
    "component": [
        {
            "name": {
                "value": "section 2"
            },
            "measurements": {
                "display": "section 2: 26.378  x 33.4646 in.; 670 x 850 mm",
                "dimensions": [
                    {
                        "units": "in",
                        "dimension": "height",
                        "value": "26 3\/8"
                    },
                    {
                        "units": "mm",
                        "dimension": "height",
                        "value": "670"
                    },
                    {
                        "units": "in",
                        "dimension": "width",
                        "value": "33 7\/16"
                    },
                    {
                        "units": "mm",
                        "dimension": "width",
                        "value": "850"
                    }
                ]
            }
        },
        {
            "name": {
                "value": "section 1"
            },
            "measurements": {
                "display": "section 1: 25.9843  x 33.4646 in.; 660 x 850 mm",
                "dimensions": [
                    {
                        "units": "in",
                        "dimension": "height",
                        "value": "26"
                    },
                    {
                        "units": "mm",
                        "dimension": "height",
                        "value": "660"
                    },
                    {
                        "units": "in",
                        "dimension": "width",
                        "value": "33 7\/16"
                    },
                    {
                        "units": "mm",
                        "dimension": "width",
                        "value": "850"
                    }
                ]
            }
        }
    ],
    "condition": [
        {
            "date": {
                "earliest": 2003,
                "value": "2003-06-26",
                "latest": 2003
            },
            "examiner": "MacKinnon, Emma",
            "value": "1: good"
        }
    ],
    "@admin": {
        "processed": 1744912892233,
        "sequence": 7732555,
        "uid": "hmc-object-118796",
        "added": 1663962006106,
        "stream": "collections-online",
        "id": "object-118796",
        "source": "hmc",
        "uuid": "9c9f7411-a8ed-38ff-833a-2cbf8e594c95"
    },
    "movable": "Y",
    "material": [
        {
            "type": "catalogue materials",
            "value": "cotton (textile)",
            "primary": true
        }
    ],
    "legal": {
        "status": "permanent collection"
    },
    "name": [
        {
            "type": "catalogue name",
            "value": "skirt; textile; ei",
            "primary": true
        },
        {
            "@reference": {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "skirts"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "object name"
                        }
                    ],
                    "variation": 113783
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-term-502836",
                    "id": "term-502836",
                    "uuid": "845ac263-966f-3697-9d95-6fd085722688"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            "type": "object name"
        },
        {
            "@reference": {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "textiles (function unknown)"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "object name (local)"
                        }
                    ],
                    "variation": 144540
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-term-1015405",
                    "id": "term-1015405",
                    "uuid": "bd68ec78-073a-3aa1-b09f-f357db94c996"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            "type": "object name (local)"
        },
        {
            "type": "object name (local)"
        },
        {
            "type": "object name (Horniman Ethno.)",
            "value": "skirt"
        },
        {
            "type": "object name (unclassified)",
            "value": "textile"
        },
        {
            "type": "object name (local)",
            "value": "ei"
        }
    ],
    "options": {
        "item_count": "1",
        "flag4": "N",
        "flag3": "Y",
        "flag2": "N",
        "flag1": "N",
        "option2": "Source: collector: information common to all skirts in the collection: ikat frames are 120-150 cm long and 40-50 cm high; the fabric is woven on a backstrap loom. Mainly home grown cotton; often commercial cotton is used for the ikat warp sections. Please refer to original description for further information."
    },
    "appraisal": [
        {
            "source": "catalogue",
            "@entity": "lifecycle"
        }
    ],
    "term": [
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "skirts"
            },
            "@link": {
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "object name"
                    }
                ]
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-term-502836",
                "id": "term-502836",
                "uuid": "845ac263-966f-3697-9d95-6fd085722688"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        },
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "textiles (function unknown)"
            },
            "@link": {
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "object name (local)"
                    }
                ]
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-term-1015405",
                "id": "term-1015405",
                "uuid": "bd68ec78-073a-3aa1-b09f-f357db94c996"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        }
    ],
    "category": [
        {
            "type": "category1",
            "value": "Anthropology: Ethnography"
        }
    ],
    "cumulation": {
        "collector": [
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "collector"
                        }
                    ],
                    "attribution": {
                        "attributor": "curator"
                    }
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-agent-5582",
                    "id": "agent-5582",
                    "uuid": "feb154aa-03df-3831-93ef-3b7c98642d2d"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "source": "catalogue"
                },
                "name": [
                    {
                        "value": "Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve"
                    }
                ],
                "@entity": "literal"
            }
        ]
    },
    "physical": [
        {
            "note": "(AAT) Spittler, Ute 2003-06-02",
            "component": "overall",
            "term": "cotton (textile)",
            "descriptor": "material",
            "@reference": {
                "@entity": "literal"
            },
            "type": "material"
        }
    ],
    "facility": [
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "shD"
            },
            "note": [
                {
                    "value": "Location automatically updated from SCC; 3\/1; 000020; ; 00000D; 000002 as part of rationalisation of SCC locations, Rupert Shepherd,  2012-06-30."
                }
            ],
            "@link": {
                "container": "Roll:3\/1-20-D-002a",
                "date": {
                    "earliest": 2005,
                    "value": "2005-03-08",
                    "latest": 2005
                },
                "duration": "7327.79",
                "level4": "shD",
                "current": "Y",
                "last": {
                    "level6": "table",
                    "location": "Horniman Museum. Study Collections Centre",
                    "level1": "SCC",
                    "level2": "1\/1"
                },
                "purpose": "Regular storage",
                "moved": {
                    "by": "Russell, Lynn"
                },
                "location": "HMG - North Greenwich",
                "level1": "Study Collections Centre",
                "level3": "bay20",
                "level2": "3\/1"
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-facility-7732",
                "id": "facility-7732",
                "uuid": "13c740e0-a64e-3981-8b2b-c3153a4dcc34"
            },
            "@entity": "reference",
            "primary": true
        },
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "HMG - North Greenwich"
            },
            "@link": {
                "date": {
                    "earliest": 2003,
                    "value": "2003-08-28",
                    "latest": 2003
                },
                "level5": "000001",
                "level4": "shF",
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "historical"
                    }
                ],
                "last": {
                    "level4": "trolley",
                    "location": "Horniman Museum. Study Collections Centre",
                    "level1": "SCC",
                    "level2": "2\/0"
                },
                "purpose": "regular storage",
                "moved": {
                    "by": "Russell, Lynn"
                },
                "duration": "257",
                "current": "N",
                "location": "HMG - North Greenwich",
                "level1": "Study Collections Centre",
                "level3": "bay07",
                "level2": "3\/1"
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-facility-550",
                "id": "facility-550",
                "uuid": "a6a2a6a8-0897-383a-b876-7caa8bdc0fea"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        },
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "Layout Table 2"
            },
            "@link": {
                "date": {
                    "earliest": 2004,
                    "value": "2004-06-10",
                    "latest": 2004
                },
                "duration": "2",
                "current": "N",
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "historical"
                    }
                ],
                "last": {
                    "location": "Horniman Museum. Michael Horniman Building",
                    "level1": "MH",
                    "level2": "0\/1"
                },
                "purpose": "temporary storage",
                "moved": {
                    "by": "Curtis, Bill"
                },
                "location": "HMG - North Greenwich",
                "level1": "Study Collections Centre",
                "level3": "table",
                "level2": "1\/0"
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-facility-560",
                "id": "facility-560",
                "uuid": "9f045368-df1d-3b7a-aa38-43751f9b06bd"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        },
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "floor"
            },
            "@link": {
                "date": {
                    "earliest": 2004,
                    "value": "2004-05-10",
                    "latest": 2004
                },
                "duration": "4",
                "current": "N",
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "historical"
                    }
                ],
                "last": {
                    "level5": "00000F",
                    "level6": "000001",
                    "location": "Horniman Museum. Study Collections Centre",
                    "level1": "SCC",
                    "level3": "000007",
                    "level2": "3\/1"
                },
                "purpose": "temporary storage",
                "moved": {
                    "by": "Curtis, Bill"
                },
                "location": "HMG - North Greenwich",
                "level1": "Study Collections Centre",
                "level3": "floor",
                "level2": "1\/0"
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-facility-673",
                "id": "facility-673",
                "uuid": "656c8c38-37a0-357c-b8e3-bd5fd26bc7c5"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        },
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "Layout Space"
            },
            "@link": {
                "date": {
                    "earliest": 2004,
                    "value": "2004-05-13",
                    "latest": 2004
                },
                "duration": "29",
                "current": "N",
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "historical"
                    }
                ],
                "last": {
                    "level4": "floor",
                    "location": "Horniman Museum. Study Collections Centre",
                    "level1": "SCC",
                    "level2": "1\/0"
                },
                "purpose": "Exhibition",
                "moved": {
                    "by": "Curtis, Bill"
                },
                "location": "HMG - Forest Hill",
                "level1": "Michael Horniman Building",
                "level2": "Layout Space"
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-facility-12795",
                "id": "facility-12795",
                "uuid": "4069064f-2c3d-3e5a-821d-ba16a27de849"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        }
    ],
    "creation": {
        "date": [
            {
                "source": "catalogue",
                "earliest": 1999,
                "value": "1999-2002",
                "latest": 2002
            },
            {
                "earliest": 1999,
                "value": "1999-2002",
                "latest": 2002
            }
        ],
        "maker": [
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Bendelina Buki; Ina Nara Beni Wila"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "source": "catalogue"
                },
                "name": [
                    {
                        "value": "Bendelina Buki; Ina Nara Beni Wila"
                    }
                ],
                "@entity": "literal"
            },
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Bendelina Buki"
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-agent-5659",
                    "id": "agent-5659",
                    "uuid": "f0ce5dfb-323e-34ec-a8e6-078aae2a8838"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Ina Nara Beni Wila"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "attribution": {
                        "note": [
                            {
                                "type": "comment",
                                "value": "alias for Bendelina Fuki",
                                "primary": true
                            }
                        ]
                    }
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-agent-5660",
                    "id": "agent-5660",
                    "uuid": "ce155981-6f1d-36ea-8d20-92d2a458ff8d"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            }
        ],
        "place": [
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Savu"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "made or collected"
                        }
                    ],
                    "attribution": {
                        "date": [
                            {
                                "earliest": 2003,
                                "value": "2003",
                                "latest": 2003,
                                "primary": true
                            }
                        ],
                        "attributor": "Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve"
                    }
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-place-2753",
                    "id": "place-2753",
                    "uuid": "89b4d3b8-f0b1-38ad-8c60-5bd8605bf83c"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Indonesia"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "made or collected"
                        }
                    ],
                    "locale": "Savu, Nusa Tengara Timur"
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-place-209",
                    "id": "place-209",
                    "uuid": "b913a2f9-0105-3c3b-b907-07eed4cb0f46"
                },
                "historical": true,
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Savu, Lesser Sunda Islands, Indonesia, Southeast Asia, Asia"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "source": "catalogue"
                },
                "name": [
                    {
                        "value": "Savu, Lesser Sunda Islands, Indonesia, Southeast Asia, Asia"
                    }
                ],
                "@entity": "literal"
            }
        ],
        "@entity": "lifecycle"
    },
    "measurements": {
        "note": [
            {
                "value": "width = weaving width"
            }
        ],
        "display": "overall: 66.7717  x 25.9843 in.; 1696 x 660 mm",
        "count": "1",
        "dimensions": [
            {
                "type": "catalogue dimensions",
                "value": "overall: 66.7717  x 25.9843 in.; 1696 x 660 mm; section 1: 25.9843  x 33.4646 in.; 660 x 850 mm; section 2: 26.378  x 33.4646 in.; 670 x 850 mm",
                "primary": true
            },
            {
                "units": "in",
                "dimension": "height",
                "value": "66 3\/4"
            },
            {
                "units": "mm",
                "dimension": "height",
                "value": "1696"
            },
            {
                "units": "in",
                "dimension": "width",
                "value": "26"
            },
            {
                "units": "mm",
                "dimension": "width",
                "value": "660"
            }
        ]
    }
}