{
    "summary": {
        "title": "skirt; textile; ei"
    },
    "identifier": [
        {
            "accession_number": "2003.286",
            "type": "accession number",
            "value": "2003.286",
            "primary": true
        },
        {
            "note": [
                {
                    "value": "E76.22 WAS CHANGED BY Spittler, Ute ON 2003-06-02"
                }
            ],
            "source": "Acquisitions",
            "type": "entry number",
            "value": "E76.22"
        },
        {
            "type": "Horniman laboratory number",
            "value": "0"
        }
    ],
    "loan": {
        "value": "Y"
    },
    "description": [
        {
            "type": "catalogue description",
            "value": "A continuous closed circle of woven textile for a woman's skirt made from cotton and dyed with vegetable dyes. The textile's maker is Eu Dane alias Ina Keraba Lodo. It shows continuous warp weaving. Since it is one piece it is called he kene. It would be cut into 2 sections and sewn together to form the skirt. One section would then be the mirror image of the other. The fabric is mainly warp-faced ikat. All ikat stripes are  patterned cream on a red ground. The sets of stripes at either selvedge are made up of  3 repeated sequences. One set contains narrow black and white patterned stripes, known as 'raja wenyi'. These 'raja' are created with a floating warp. Between  both sets of stripes lie a solid blue-black stripe, and  the main ikat stripe. Its motif, called 'wo ketada pudi' or 'wo tada', is a variation on the motif 'kobe molai' or 'male kobe'. Tada refers to dots of indigo added with the fingers after dyeing in red. Here wo ketada pudi (pudi = white) means that no indigo dots have been added. The dyes used are indigo (blue-black), morinda citrifolia (red), and tumeric (yellow). [See original description 1 & 2 for details.]",
            "primary": true
        },
        {
            "date": [
                {
                    "earliest": 2003,
                    "value": "2003-06-02",
                    "latest": 2003,
                    "primary": true
                }
            ],
            "historical": true,
            "source": "field notes written by Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve",
            "type": "original description",
            "value": "No 22-27 [2003.286-291]: Sarongs of women of wini Ga, hubi ae (greater blossom group) in Ledetadu, Pedaro, Mesara, West Savu. All women of wini Ga are entitled to the motif kobe morena. Those who are descendants of Mojo Lado are also entitled to the motif kobe molai. Those who are descendants of Wahi Hehe are entitled to both motifs above and also the motif wue jara. Those who are descendants of Ngera Mehe are entitled to all above and also the motif wila wiu. Collecting exemplary samples of one wini allows to reflect on the number of weavings a subgroup may own and to understand the evolution in the patterns and styles. They still can spin cotton and are able to use vegetable dyes. Some are open to knowledge about weavings and dyes, moreover they disclose their maternal genealogies to me. Eu Dane (alias Ina Keraba Lodo) is my best informant for wini Ga and one of the best weavers in Savu.  Ei raja, hebe wo ketada pudi, hubi ae, wini Ga. handspun cotton, natural dyes. Raja stripes of the type raja wenyi (6 threads; 3x2). Edge of juli ngui red. Dim: total warp including the fringe: 244cm, weft: 85cm. Weaver: Eu Dane\/ Ina Keraba Lodo. From the collection of G. Duggan. Purchased in 1998?  This piece documents on the meaning of a continuous warp weaving, typical of back tension looms. The weaving is completed and comes in one closed circle out of the loom. Since it is one piece it is called he kene. (Compare with diagram 8 p. 35 and fig. 41 p 123 in Duggan 2001).  The motif wo ketada pudi or wo tada is a variation on the motif kobe molai or male kobe which is restricted to the descendants of Mojo Lado (see Duggan, 2001: 2001; 43-44 amd fig 57). The ends of the horizontal branches are closed while for the motif kobe morena the branches are open at the end, reminding of the mamuli motif of Sumba. Tada (tanda in Bah. Ind.) refers to dots of indigo added with the fingers after dyeing in red."
        },
        {
            "date": [
                {
                    "earliest": 2003,
                    "value": "2003-06-02",
                    "latest": 2003,
                    "primary": true
                }
            ],
            "source": "field notes written by Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve",
            "type": "original description",
            "value": "Here wo ketada pudi (pudi=putih, Bah. Ind., white) means that no dots in indigo have been added.  The stripes raja wenyi are easier to make than the stripes raja bunga. they repeat three times per panel. The pattern of this weaving is a variation of the motif on the loom (16)."
        },
        {
            "date": [
                {
                    "earliest": 2003,
                    "value": "2003-06-05",
                    "latest": 2003,
                    "primary": true
                }
            ],
            "note": [
                {
                    "value": "From notes supplied by the collector"
                }
            ],
            "source": "Spittler, Ute",
            "type": "object description",
            "value": "A continuous closed circle of woven textile for a woman's skirt made from cotton and dyed with vegetable dyes. The textile's maker is Eu Dane alias Ina Keraba Lodo. It shows continuous warp weaving. Since it is one piece it is called he kene. It would be cut into 2 sections and sewn together to form the skirt. One section would then be the mirror image of the other. The fabric is mainly warp-faced ikat. All ikat stripes are  patterned cream on a red ground. The sets of stripes at either selvedge are made up of  3 repeated sequences. One set contains narrow black and white patterned stripes, known as 'raja wenyi'. These 'raja' are created with a floating warp. Between  both set of stripes lie a solid blue-black stripe, and  the main ikat stripe. Its motif, called 'wo ketada pudi' or 'wo tada', is a variation on the motif 'kobe molai' or 'male kobe'. Tada refers to dots of indigo added with the fingers after dyeing in red. Here wo ketada pudi (pudi = white) means that no indigo dots have been added. The dyes used are indigo (blue-black),morinda citrifolia (red), and tumeric (yellow). [See original description 1 & 2 for details.]"
        },
        {
            "date": [
                {
                    "earliest": 2003,
                    "value": "2003-06-05",
                    "latest": 2003,
                    "primary": true
                }
            ],
            "source": "Duggan, Genevieve",
            "type": "detailed description",
            "value": "A continuous closed circle of woven textile for a woman's skirt made from cotton and dyed with vegetable dyes. The textile's maker is Eu Dane alias Ina Keraba Lodo. It shows the continuous warp weaving, typical of back tension looms. Since it is one piece it is called he kene. It would be cut into 2 sections and sewn together to form the skirt. One section would then be the mirror image of the other. The fabric is mainly warp-faced ikat. All ikat stripes are  patterned cream on a red ground. The sets of stripes at either selvedge are made up of  3 repeated sequences. One set contains a petalled motif, bisected by a  narrower ikat stripe framed speckled red and yellow lines on a blue-black ground. Each sequence is framed by two speckled yellow and red stripes, again on a blue-black ground. The opposite set consists of 6 paired ikat stripes. These are alternately separated by thin blue-black lines or a  black and white pattern known as 'raja wenyi'. These 'raja' are created with a floating warp. Between  both set of stripes lie a solid blue-black stripe, and  the main ikat stripe.  The motif in the main stripe, called 'wo ketada pudi' or 'wo tada', is a variation on the motif 'kobe molai' or 'male kobe'. The ends of the horizontal branches are closed while for the motif 'kobe morena' the branches are open at the end. Tada refers to dots of indigo added with the fingers after dyeing in red. Here wo ketada pudi (pudi = white) means that no indigo dots have been added. The dyes used are indigo (blue-black),morinda citrifolia (red), and tumeric (yellow). [See original description 1 & 2 for details.]"
        }
    ],
    "language": [
        "eng"
    ],
    "collection": "Anthropology",
    "type": {
        "sub_type": [
            "general"
        ],
        "scope": "WHOLE",
        "base": "object"
    },
    "@admin": {
        "processed": 1744912892233,
        "sequence": 7491545,
        "uid": "hmc-object-118799",
        "added": 1663962005978,
        "stream": "collections-online",
        "id": "object-118799",
        "source": "hmc",
        "uuid": "98442aec-85b1-33c1-88b8-83f62e5416f8"
    },
    "material": [
        {
            "type": "catalogue materials",
            "value": "cotton (textile); natural dye",
            "primary": true
        }
    ],
    "legal": {
        "status": "permanent collection"
    },
    "name": [
        {
            "type": "catalogue name",
            "value": "skirt; textile; ei",
            "primary": true
        },
        {
            "@reference": {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "skirts"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "object name"
                        }
                    ],
                    "variation": 113783
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-term-502836",
                    "id": "term-502836",
                    "uuid": "845ac263-966f-3697-9d95-6fd085722688"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            "type": "object name"
        },
        {
            "@reference": {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "textiles (function unknown)"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "object name (local)"
                        }
                    ],
                    "variation": 144540
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-term-1015405",
                    "id": "term-1015405",
                    "uuid": "bd68ec78-073a-3aa1-b09f-f357db94c996"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            "type": "object name (local)"
        },
        {
            "type": "object name (local)"
        },
        {
            "type": "object name (Horniman Ethno.)",
            "value": "skirt"
        },
        {
            "type": "object name (unclassified)",
            "value": "textile"
        },
        {
            "type": "object name (local)",
            "value": "ei"
        }
    ],
    "options": {
        "item_count": "1",
        "flag4": "N",
        "flag3": "Y",
        "flag2": "N",
        "flag1": "N",
        "option2": "Source: collector: information common to all skirts in the collection: ikat frames are 120-150 cm long and 40-50 cm high; the fabric is woven on a backstrap loom. Mainly home grown cotton; often commercial cotton is used for the ikat warp sections. Please refer to original description for further information."
    },
    "appraisal": [
        {
            "source": "catalogue",
            "@entity": "lifecycle"
        }
    ],
    "term": [
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "skirts"
            },
            "@link": {
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "object name"
                    }
                ]
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-term-502836",
                "id": "term-502836",
                "uuid": "845ac263-966f-3697-9d95-6fd085722688"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        },
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "textiles (function unknown)"
            },
            "@link": {
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "object name (local)"
                    }
                ]
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-term-1015405",
                "id": "term-1015405",
                "uuid": "bd68ec78-073a-3aa1-b09f-f357db94c996"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        }
    ],
    "category": [
        {
            "type": "category1",
            "value": "Anthropology: Ethnography"
        }
    ],
    "cumulation": {
        "collector": [
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Duggan, Genevieve"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "source": "catalogue"
                },
                "name": [
                    {
                        "value": "Duggan, Genevieve"
                    }
                ],
                "@entity": "literal"
            },
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "collector"
                        }
                    ]
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-agent-5582",
                    "id": "agent-5582",
                    "uuid": "feb154aa-03df-3831-93ef-3b7c98642d2d"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve"
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-agent-5582",
                    "id": "agent-5582",
                    "uuid": "feb154aa-03df-3831-93ef-3b7c98642d2d"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            }
        ]
    },
    "physical": [
        {
            "note": "(AAT) associated documentation 2003-06-02",
            "component": "overall",
            "term": "cotton (textile)",
            "descriptor": "material",
            "@reference": {
                "@entity": "literal"
            },
            "type": "material"
        },
        {
            "note": "(AAT) associated documentation 2003-06-02",
            "component": "overall",
            "term": "natural dye",
            "descriptor": "material",
            "@reference": {
                "@entity": "literal"
            },
            "type": "material"
        }
    ],
    "facility": [
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "shF"
            },
            "note": [
                {
                    "value": "Location automatically updated from SCC; 3\/1; 000020; ; 00000F; 000001 as part of rationalisation of SCC locations, Rupert Shepherd,  2012-06-30."
                }
            ],
            "@link": {
                "container": "Roll:3\/1-20-F-001",
                "date": {
                    "earliest": 2005,
                    "value": "2005-03-08",
                    "latest": 2005
                },
                "level4": "shF",
                "current": "Y",
                "last": {
                    "level6": "table",
                    "location": "Horniman Museum. Study Collections Centre",
                    "level1": "SCC",
                    "level2": "1\/1"
                },
                "purpose": "Regular storage",
                "moved": {
                    "by": "Russell, Lynn"
                },
                "location": "HMG - North Greenwich",
                "level1": "Study Collections Centre",
                "level3": "bay20",
                "level2": "3\/1"
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-facility-7742",
                "id": "facility-7742",
                "uuid": "edaba704-b6ee-398e-a9e1-0aa39996df78"
            },
            "@entity": "reference",
            "primary": true
        },
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "HMG - North Greenwich"
            },
            "@link": {
                "date": {
                    "earliest": 2003,
                    "value": "2003-09-02",
                    "latest": 2003
                },
                "level5": "000001",
                "level4": "shB",
                "current": "N",
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "historical"
                    }
                ],
                "purpose": "regular storage",
                "moved": {
                    "by": "Lefebvre, Philip"
                },
                "location": "HMG - North Greenwich",
                "level1": "Study Collections Centre",
                "level3": "bay26",
                "level2": "3\/1"
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-facility-550",
                "id": "facility-550",
                "uuid": "a6a2a6a8-0897-383a-b876-7caa8bdc0fea"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        },
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "Layout Table 2"
            },
            "@link": {
                "date": {
                    "earliest": 2004,
                    "value": "2004-06-10",
                    "latest": 2004
                },
                "current": "N",
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "historical"
                    }
                ],
                "last": {
                    "location": "Horniman Museum. Michael Horniman Building",
                    "level1": "MH",
                    "level2": "0\/1"
                },
                "purpose": "temporary storage",
                "moved": {
                    "by": "Curtis, Bill"
                },
                "location": "HMG - North Greenwich",
                "level1": "Study Collections Centre",
                "level3": "table",
                "level2": "1\/0"
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-facility-560",
                "id": "facility-560",
                "uuid": "9f045368-df1d-3b7a-aa38-43751f9b06bd"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        },
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "floor"
            },
            "@link": {
                "date": {
                    "earliest": 2004,
                    "value": "2004-05-10",
                    "latest": 2004
                },
                "current": "N",
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "historical"
                    }
                ],
                "last": {
                    "level5": "00000B",
                    "level6": "000001",
                    "location": "Horniman Museum. Study Collections Centre",
                    "level1": "SCC",
                    "level3": "000026",
                    "level2": "3\/1"
                },
                "purpose": "temporary storage",
                "moved": {
                    "by": "Curtis, Bill"
                },
                "location": "HMG - North Greenwich",
                "level1": "Study Collections Centre",
                "level3": "floor",
                "level2": "1\/0"
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-facility-673",
                "id": "facility-673",
                "uuid": "656c8c38-37a0-357c-b8e3-bd5fd26bc7c5"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        },
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "Layout Space"
            },
            "@link": {
                "date": {
                    "earliest": 2004,
                    "value": "2004-05-13",
                    "latest": 2004
                },
                "current": "N",
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "historical"
                    }
                ],
                "last": {
                    "level4": "floor",
                    "location": "Horniman Museum. Study Collections Centre",
                    "level1": "SCC",
                    "level2": "1\/0"
                },
                "purpose": "Exhibition",
                "moved": {
                    "by": "Curtis, Bill"
                },
                "location": "HMG - Forest Hill",
                "level1": "Michael Horniman Building",
                "level2": "Layout Space"
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-facility-12795",
                "id": "facility-12795",
                "uuid": "4069064f-2c3d-3e5a-821d-ba16a27de849"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        }
    ],
    "creation": {
        "date": [
            {
                "source": "catalogue",
                "earliest": 1992,
                "value": "1992-1998",
                "latest": 1998
            },
            {
                "note": [
                    {
                        "value": "The majority of the samples collected here are contemporary weavings (made in the last 10 years). ; see field notes, p. 4, but for this object specific notes say: Purchased in 1998? - see field notes p.6"
                    }
                ],
                "earliest": 1992,
                "value": "1992-1998",
                "latest": 1998
            }
        ],
        "maker": [
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Eu Dane; Ina Keraba Lodo"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "source": "catalogue"
                },
                "name": [
                    {
                        "value": "Eu Dane; Ina Keraba Lodo"
                    }
                ],
                "@entity": "literal"
            },
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Eu Dane"
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-agent-5651",
                    "id": "agent-5651",
                    "uuid": "ad880d70-9e78-3287-83c4-9d3f0d17d885"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Ina Keraba Lodo"
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-agent-5657",
                    "id": "agent-5657",
                    "uuid": "91eb1009-2f17-36fb-bd41-c16431c026a7"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            }
        ],
        "place": [
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Ledetadu"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "made or collected"
                        }
                    ],
                    "attribution": {
                        "date": [
                            {
                                "earliest": 2003,
                                "value": "2003",
                                "latest": 2003,
                                "primary": true
                            }
                        ],
                        "attributor": "Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve",
                        "source": "field notes"
                    }
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-place-2754",
                    "id": "place-2754",
                    "uuid": "3bbb25fe-4054-3fbe-9a7a-f80a853797db"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Indonesia"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "made or collected"
                        }
                    ],
                    "locale": "Ledetadu, Savu, Nusa Tenggara Timur"
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-place-209",
                    "id": "place-209",
                    "uuid": "b913a2f9-0105-3c3b-b907-07eed4cb0f46"
                },
                "historical": true,
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Ledetadu, Savu, Lesser Sunda Islands, Indonesia, Southeast Asia, Asia"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "source": "catalogue"
                },
                "name": [
                    {
                        "value": "Ledetadu, Savu, Lesser Sunda Islands, Indonesia, Southeast Asia, Asia"
                    }
                ],
                "@entity": "literal"
            }
        ],
        "@entity": "lifecycle"
    },
    "measurements": {
        "display": "overall: 51.9685  x 33.2677 in.; 1320 x 845 mm",
        "count": "1",
        "dimensions": [
            {
                "type": "catalogue dimensions",
                "value": "overall: 51.9685  x 33.2677 in.; 1320 x 845 mm",
                "primary": true
            },
            {
                "units": "in",
                "dimension": "height",
                "value": "51 15\/16"
            },
            {
                "units": "mm",
                "dimension": "height",
                "value": "1320"
            },
            {
                "units": "in",
                "dimension": "width",
                "value": "33 1\/4"
            },
            {
                "units": "mm",
                "dimension": "width",
                "value": "845"
            }
        ]
    }
}