{
    "summary": {
        "title": "textile; skirt; ei"
    },
    "identifier": [
        {
            "accession_number": "2003.287",
            "type": "accession number",
            "value": "2003.287",
            "primary": true
        },
        {
            "note": [
                {
                    "value": "E76.23 WAS CHANGED BY Spittler, Ute ON 2003-06-02"
                }
            ],
            "source": "Acquisitions",
            "type": "entry number",
            "value": "E76.23"
        },
        {
            "type": "Horniman laboratory number",
            "value": "0"
        }
    ],
    "loan": {
        "value": "Y"
    },
    "description": [
        {
            "type": "catalogue description",
            "value": "A woman's skirt made from cotton and dyed with vegetable dyes. It has been overdyed with synthetic dye in the last bath. The textile was made by Ina Kaja Ha'e. The cloth is made in 2 sections on a backstrap loom. 2 length are sewn together at one selvedge; one section is the mirror image of the other. The fabric is mainly warp-faced ikat. [The patterning is described as it was woven (as stripes) rather than as worn (as bands).] All ikat patterned stripes are cream on a red ground. The two solid blue-black stripes, called 'medi ae', are bisected by an ikat stripe with 'boda' motifs. An ikat stripe with the same motif is central in a striped section at the selvedges forming top and bottom of the skirt. The main ikat stripe contains a diamond-shaped motif, called 'wue jara', also known as 'heve jue'. The remaining part of this section consists of  7 narrow ikat patterned stripes bordered by coloured lines. Alternate ones are framed by toothed stripes. The dyes used are indigo (blue-black) and morinda citrifolia (red). [See original description 1 and 2 for further details.]",
            "primary": true
        },
        {
            "date": [
                {
                    "earliest": 2003,
                    "value": "2003-06-02",
                    "latest": 2003,
                    "primary": true
                }
            ],
            "source": "field notes written by Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve",
            "type": "original description",
            "value": "No 22-27 [2003.286-291]: Sarongs of women of wini Ga, hubi ae (greater blossom group) in Ledetadu, Pedaro, Mesara, West Savu. All women of wini Ga are entitled to the motif kobe morena. Those who are descendants of Mojo Lado are also entitled to the motif kobe molai. Those who are descendants of Wahi Hehe are entitled to both motifs above and also the motif wue jara. Those who are descendants of Ngera Mehe are entitled to all above and also the motif wila wiu. Collecting exemplary samples of one wini allows to reflect on the number of weavings a subgroup may own and to understand the evolution in the patterns and styles. They still can spin cotton and are able to use vegetable dyes. Some are open to knowledge about weavings and dyes, moreover they disclose their maternal genealogies to me. Eu Dane (alias Ina Keraba Lodo) is my best informant for wini Ga and one of the best weavers in Savu. \n\nEi worapi, hebe wue jara, hubi ae, wini Ga, commercial cotton, mixed dyes (natural indigo, red morinda dye, soaked for the last bath in synthetic dye). Edges red at middle seam. Dim: L: 160cm (weft: 57cm), l: 57cm.  Weaver and seller of the piece Ina Kaja Ha'e.  The motif wue jara, also known as heve jue, was created by the ancestress Wahi Hehe as a reminder of her sad adventure when as a bride she traveled on horse back (jara) from Kujiratu to the house of her future husband, Dimu Kore, the raja of Mesara (Duggan, 2001: 44). Dimu Kore is later known in history as Ama Buki Dimu. Buki Dimu is mentioned in VOC manuscripts, Hoge Regering (National Archives, Jakarta) as the new raja of Mesara \"replacing an old blind man\" whose name was not given in the report (his father?) and as the recipient of the presents from the VOC in 1781. Thus Wahi Hehe's marriage to Dimu Kore and the creation of the motif wue jara can be dated mid 18th century. The name Wahi Hehe is to be found in the genealogies of diagram 13 (Duggan 2001: 102-103)."
        },
        {
            "date": [
                {
                    "earliest": 2003,
                    "value": "2003-06-02",
                    "latest": 2003,
                    "primary": true
                }
            ],
            "historical": true,
            "source": "field notes written by Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve",
            "type": "original description",
            "value": "The worapi type of weaving is neutral and was at its beginning worn by the nobility. When women converted to Christianity (conversions started with the ruling classes) they favoured the neutral worapi sarong for ceremonies at church.  Note that the large black stripe, medi ae, has been divided through a band depicting the boda motif. On the photo, Ina Kaja Ha'e wears a similar, ei worapi, hebe wue jara, but with a plain medi ae."
        },
        {
            "date": [
                {
                    "earliest": 2003,
                    "value": "2003-06-04",
                    "latest": 2003,
                    "primary": true
                }
            ],
            "source": "Spittler, Ute",
            "type": "detailed description",
            "value": "A woman's skirt made from cotton and dyed with vegetable dyes. It has been overdyed with synthetic dye in the last bath. The textile has been made by Ina Kaja Ha'e. The cloth is made in 2 sections on a backstrap loom. 2 length are sewn together at one selvedge; one section is the mirror image of the other. The fabric is mainly warp-faced ikat, with ends doubled in the weft. [The patterning is described as it was woven (as stripes) rather than as worn (as bands).] All ikat patterned stripes are cream on a red ground. At one selvedge (at the top and bottom of the skirt) is a broad stripe. This consists of a central ikat stripe with 'boda' motifs. This is flanked either side by a narrower ikat stipe between thin lines and toothed stripes. Beside this ikat section is a  solid blue-black stripe called 'medi ae'. This is bisected by an ikat stripe, again with 'boda' motifs. Next is the main ikat stripe. The motif,  called 'wue jara', also known as 'heve jue'. It was created by the ancestress Wahi Hehe as a reminder of her sad adventure when as a bride she traveled on horse back (jara) from Kujiratu to the house of her future husband, Dimu Kore, the raja of Mesara. The remaining part of this section consists of  7 narrow ikat patterned stripes bordered by coloured lines. Alternate ones are also framed by toothed stripes. The dyes used are indigo (blue-black) and morinda citrifolia (red). No information is given about the dye for the yellow lines. [See original description 1 and 2 for further details.]"
        },
        {
            "date": [
                {
                    "earliest": 2003,
                    "value": "2003-06-04",
                    "latest": 2003,
                    "primary": true
                }
            ],
            "source": "Spittler, Ute",
            "type": "object description",
            "value": "A woman's skirt made from cotton and dyed with vegetable dyes. It has been overdyed with synthetic dye in the last bath. The textile has been made by Ina Kaja Ha'e. The cloth is made in 2 sections on a backstrap loom. 2 length are sewn together at one selvedge; one section is the mirror image of the other. The fabric is mainly warp-faced ikat. [The patterning is described as it was woven (as stripes) rather than as worn (as bands).] All ikat patterned stripes are  cream on a red ground. The two solid blue-black stripes, called 'medi ae', are bisected by an ikat stripe with 'boda' motifs. An ikat stripe with the same motif is central in a striped section at the selvedges forming top and bottom of the skirt. The main ikat stripe contains a diamond-shaped motif, called 'wue jara', also known as 'heve jue'. The remaining part of this section consists of  7 narrow ikat patterned stripes bordered by coloured lines. Alternate ones are framed by toothed stripes. The dyes used are indigo (blue-black) and morinda citrifolia (red). [See original description 1 and 2 for further details.]"
        }
    ],
    "language": [
        "eng"
    ],
    "collection": "Anthropology",
    "type": {
        "sub_type": [
            "general"
        ],
        "scope": "WHOLE",
        "base": "object"
    },
    "component": [
        {
            "name": {
                "value": "section 2"
            },
            "measurements": {
                "display": "section 2: 23.7008  x 31.9685 in.; 602 x 812 mm",
                "dimensions": [
                    {
                        "units": "in",
                        "dimension": "height",
                        "value": "23 11\/16"
                    },
                    {
                        "units": "mm",
                        "dimension": "height",
                        "value": "602"
                    },
                    {
                        "units": "in",
                        "dimension": "width",
                        "value": "31 15\/16"
                    },
                    {
                        "units": "mm",
                        "dimension": "width",
                        "value": "812"
                    }
                ]
            }
        },
        {
            "name": {
                "value": "section 1"
            },
            "measurements": {
                "display": "section 1: 23.3071  x 31.378 in.; 592 x 797 mm",
                "dimensions": [
                    {
                        "units": "in",
                        "dimension": "height",
                        "value": "23 5\/16"
                    },
                    {
                        "units": "mm",
                        "dimension": "height",
                        "value": "592"
                    },
                    {
                        "units": "in",
                        "dimension": "width",
                        "value": "31 3\/8"
                    },
                    {
                        "units": "mm",
                        "dimension": "width",
                        "value": "797"
                    }
                ]
            }
        }
    ],
    "condition": [
        {
            "date": {
                "earliest": 2003,
                "value": "2003-06-20",
                "latest": 2003
            },
            "examiner": "MacKinnon, Emma",
            "value": "1: good"
        }
    ],
    "@admin": {
        "processed": 1744912892233,
        "sequence": 7732270,
        "uid": "hmc-object-118800",
        "added": 1663962004604,
        "stream": "collections-online",
        "id": "object-118800",
        "source": "hmc",
        "uuid": "8669591c-7e60-38fc-bb68-1dede6d23ae6"
    },
    "movable": "Y",
    "material": [
        {
            "type": "catalogue materials",
            "value": "cotton (textile); indigo; morinda; synthetic dye",
            "primary": true
        }
    ],
    "legal": {
        "status": "permanent collection"
    },
    "name": [
        {
            "type": "catalogue name",
            "value": "textile; skirt; ei",
            "primary": true
        },
        {
            "@reference": {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "textiles (function unknown)"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "object name (local)"
                        }
                    ],
                    "variation": 144540
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-term-1015405",
                    "id": "term-1015405",
                    "uuid": "bd68ec78-073a-3aa1-b09f-f357db94c996"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            "type": "object name (local)"
        },
        {
            "@reference": {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "skirts"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "object name"
                        }
                    ],
                    "variation": 113783
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-term-502836",
                    "id": "term-502836",
                    "uuid": "845ac263-966f-3697-9d95-6fd085722688"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            "type": "object name"
        },
        {
            "type": "object name (local)"
        },
        {
            "type": "object name (unclassified)",
            "value": "textile"
        },
        {
            "type": "object name (Horniman Ethno.)",
            "value": "skirt"
        },
        {
            "type": "object name (local)",
            "value": "ei"
        }
    ],
    "options": {
        "item_count": "1",
        "flag4": "N",
        "flag3": "Y",
        "flag2": "N",
        "flag1": "N",
        "option2": "Source: collector: information common to all skirts in the collection: ikat frames are 120-150 cm long and 40-50 cm high; the fabric is woven on a backstrap loom. Mainly home grown cotton; often commercial cotton is used for the ikat warp sections. Please refer to original description for further information."
    },
    "appraisal": [
        {
            "source": "catalogue",
            "@entity": "lifecycle"
        }
    ],
    "term": [
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "textiles (function unknown)"
            },
            "@link": {
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "object name (local)"
                    }
                ]
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-term-1015405",
                "id": "term-1015405",
                "uuid": "bd68ec78-073a-3aa1-b09f-f357db94c996"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        },
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "skirts"
            },
            "@link": {
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "object name"
                    }
                ]
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-term-502836",
                "id": "term-502836",
                "uuid": "845ac263-966f-3697-9d95-6fd085722688"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        }
    ],
    "category": [
        {
            "type": "category1",
            "value": "Anthropology: Ethnography"
        }
    ],
    "cumulation": {
        "collector": [
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "collector"
                        }
                    ],
                    "attribution": {
                        "attributor": "curator"
                    }
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-agent-5582",
                    "id": "agent-5582",
                    "uuid": "feb154aa-03df-3831-93ef-3b7c98642d2d"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "source": "catalogue"
                },
                "name": [
                    {
                        "value": "Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve"
                    }
                ],
                "@entity": "literal"
            }
        ]
    },
    "physical": [
        {
            "note": "(AAT) associated documentation, 2003-06-02",
            "component": "overall",
            "term": "indigo",
            "descriptor": "material",
            "@reference": {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "indigo"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "material"
                        }
                    ]
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-term-1018233",
                    "id": "term-1018233",
                    "uuid": "21660ffb-7216-32c6-b164-4575ea0fa6e4"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            "type": "material"
        },
        {
            "note": "(AAT) associated documentation, 2003-06-02",
            "component": "overall",
            "term": "cotton (textile)",
            "descriptor": "material",
            "@reference": {
                "@entity": "literal"
            },
            "type": "material"
        },
        {
            "note": "(AAT) associated documentation, 2003-06-02",
            "component": "overall",
            "term": "morinda",
            "descriptor": "material",
            "@reference": {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Morinda sp."
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "material"
                        }
                    ]
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-term-1018236",
                    "id": "term-1018236",
                    "uuid": "aec6614c-0a69-3975-9e69-349616253039"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            "type": "material"
        },
        {
            "note": "(AAT) associated documentation, 2003-06-02",
            "component": "overall",
            "term": "synthetic dye",
            "descriptor": "material",
            "@reference": {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "synthetic dye"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "material"
                        }
                    ]
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-term-1016471",
                    "id": "term-1016471",
                    "uuid": "fc2c98f8-04bf-36a8-b571-b10d32a96e76"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            "type": "material"
        }
    ],
    "facility": [
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "shE"
            },
            "note": [
                {
                    "value": "Location automatically updated from SCC; 3\/1; 000018; ; 00000E; 000002 as part of rationalisation of SCC locations, Rupert Shepherd,  2012-06-30."
                }
            ],
            "@link": {
                "container": "Roll:3\/1-18-E-002a",
                "date": {
                    "earliest": 2005,
                    "value": "2005-03-08",
                    "latest": 2005
                },
                "duration": "7327.79",
                "level4": "shE",
                "current": "Y",
                "last": {
                    "level6": "table",
                    "location": "Horniman Museum. Study Collections Centre",
                    "level1": "SCC",
                    "level2": "1\/1"
                },
                "purpose": "Regular storage",
                "moved": {
                    "by": "Russell, Lynn"
                },
                "location": "HMG - North Greenwich",
                "level1": "Study Collections Centre",
                "level3": "bay18",
                "level2": "3\/1"
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-facility-7633",
                "id": "facility-7633",
                "uuid": "88aa5dc5-1008-3d28-bbef-c16eaccad32f"
            },
            "@entity": "reference",
            "primary": true
        },
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "HMG - North Greenwich"
            },
            "@link": {
                "date": {
                    "earliest": 2003,
                    "value": "2003-09-17",
                    "latest": 2003
                },
                "level5": "000001",
                "level4": "shC",
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "historical"
                    }
                ],
                "last": {
                    "level4": "trolley",
                    "location": "Horniman Museum. Study Collections Centre",
                    "level1": "SCC",
                    "level2": "2\/0"
                },
                "purpose": "regular storage",
                "moved": {
                    "by": "Russell, Lynn"
                },
                "duration": "237",
                "current": "N",
                "location": "HMG - North Greenwich",
                "level1": "Study Collections Centre",
                "level3": "bay08",
                "level2": "3\/1"
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-facility-550",
                "id": "facility-550",
                "uuid": "a6a2a6a8-0897-383a-b876-7caa8bdc0fea"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        },
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "Layout Table 2"
            },
            "@link": {
                "date": {
                    "earliest": 2004,
                    "value": "2004-06-10",
                    "latest": 2004
                },
                "duration": "267",
                "current": "N",
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "historical"
                    }
                ],
                "last": {
                    "location": "Horniman Museum. Michael Horniman Building",
                    "level1": "MH",
                    "level2": "0\/1"
                },
                "purpose": "temporary storage",
                "moved": {
                    "by": "Curtis, Bill"
                },
                "location": "HMG - North Greenwich",
                "level1": "Study Collections Centre",
                "level3": "table",
                "level2": "1\/0"
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-facility-560",
                "id": "facility-560",
                "uuid": "9f045368-df1d-3b7a-aa38-43751f9b06bd"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        },
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "floor"
            },
            "@link": {
                "date": {
                    "earliest": 2004,
                    "value": "2004-05-10",
                    "latest": 2004
                },
                "duration": "4",
                "current": "N",
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "historical"
                    }
                ],
                "last": {
                    "level5": "00000C",
                    "level6": "000001",
                    "location": "Horniman Museum. Study Collections Centre",
                    "level1": "SCC",
                    "level3": "000008",
                    "level2": "3\/1"
                },
                "purpose": "temporary storage",
                "moved": {
                    "by": "Curtis, Bill"
                },
                "location": "HMG - North Greenwich",
                "level1": "Study Collections Centre",
                "level3": "floor",
                "level2": "1\/0"
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-facility-673",
                "id": "facility-673",
                "uuid": "656c8c38-37a0-357c-b8e3-bd5fd26bc7c5"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        },
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "Layout Space"
            },
            "@link": {
                "date": {
                    "earliest": 2004,
                    "value": "2004-05-13",
                    "latest": 2004
                },
                "duration": "29",
                "current": "N",
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "historical"
                    }
                ],
                "last": {
                    "level4": "floor",
                    "location": "Horniman Museum. Study Collections Centre",
                    "level1": "SCC",
                    "level2": "1\/0"
                },
                "purpose": "Exhibition",
                "moved": {
                    "by": "Curtis, Bill"
                },
                "location": "HMG - Forest Hill",
                "level1": "Michael Horniman Building",
                "level2": "Layout Space"
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-facility-12795",
                "id": "facility-12795",
                "uuid": "4069064f-2c3d-3e5a-821d-ba16a27de849"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        }
    ],
    "creation": {
        "date": [
            {
                "source": "catalogue",
                "earliest": 1992,
                "value": "1992-2002",
                "latest": 2002
            },
            {
                "note": [
                    {
                        "value": "The majority of the samples collected here are contemporary weavings (made in the last 10 years). ; see field notes, p. 4"
                    }
                ],
                "earliest": 1992,
                "value": "1992-2002",
                "latest": 2002
            }
        ],
        "maker": [
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Ina Kaja Ha'e"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "source": "catalogue"
                },
                "name": [
                    {
                        "value": "Ina Kaja Ha'e"
                    }
                ],
                "@entity": "literal"
            },
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Ina Kaja Ha'e"
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-agent-5656",
                    "id": "agent-5656",
                    "uuid": "84800165-00b9-39a7-b017-4f4cdcb8fbc5"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            }
        ],
        "place": [
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Savu"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "made or collected"
                        }
                    ],
                    "attribution": {
                        "date": [
                            {
                                "earliest": 2003,
                                "value": "2003",
                                "latest": 2003,
                                "primary": true
                            }
                        ],
                        "attributor": "Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve",
                        "source": "associated documentation"
                    }
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-place-2753",
                    "id": "place-2753",
                    "uuid": "89b4d3b8-f0b1-38ad-8c60-5bd8605bf83c"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Indonesia"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "made or collected"
                        }
                    ],
                    "locale": "West Savu, Nusa Tenggara Timur"
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-place-209",
                    "id": "place-209",
                    "uuid": "b913a2f9-0105-3c3b-b907-07eed4cb0f46"
                },
                "historical": true,
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Savu, Lesser Sunda Islands, Indonesia, Southeast Asia, Asia"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "source": "catalogue"
                },
                "name": [
                    {
                        "value": "Savu, Lesser Sunda Islands, Indonesia, Southeast Asia, Asia"
                    }
                ],
                "@entity": "literal"
            }
        ],
        "@entity": "lifecycle"
    },
    "measurements": {
        "note": [
            {
                "value": "width= weaving width"
            }
        ],
        "display": "overall: 63.3465  x 23.7008 in.; 1609 x 602 mm",
        "count": "1",
        "dimensions": [
            {
                "type": "catalogue dimensions",
                "value": "overall: 63.3465  x 23.7008 in.; 1609 x 602 mm; section 1: 23.3071  x 31.378 in.; 592 x 797 mm; section 2: 23.7008  x 31.9685 in.; 602 x 812 mm",
                "primary": true
            },
            {
                "units": "in",
                "dimension": "height",
                "value": "63 3\/8"
            },
            {
                "units": "mm",
                "dimension": "height",
                "value": "1609"
            },
            {
                "units": "in",
                "dimension": "width",
                "value": "23 11\/16"
            },
            {
                "units": "mm",
                "dimension": "width",
                "value": "602"
            }
        ]
    }
}