{
    "summary": {
        "title": "skirt; textile; ei"
    },
    "identifier": [
        {
            "accession_number": "2003.290",
            "type": "accession number",
            "value": "2003.290",
            "primary": true
        },
        {
            "note": [
                {
                    "value": "E76.26 WAS CHANGED BY Spittler, Ute ON 2003-06-02"
                }
            ],
            "source": "Acquisitions",
            "type": "entry number",
            "value": "E76.26"
        },
        {
            "type": "Horniman laboratory number",
            "value": "0"
        }
    ],
    "loan": {
        "value": "Y"
    },
    "description": [
        {
            "type": "catalogue description",
            "value": "A woman's skirt made from cotton and dyed with vegetable dyes. The textile is old and had been worn prior to purchase in 1999. The cloth is made in 2 sections and sewn together at one selvedge; one section is the mirror image of the other. The fabric is mainly warp-faced ikat. [The patterning is described as it was woven (as stripes) rather than as worn (as bands).] All ikat patterned stripes consists of undyed warp ends on a red ground. There are two blue-black stripes, bisected by a lighter coloured  stripe. The main ikat stripe stripe contains a variation of the motif called 'kobe morena' with open branches (= female). There is a set of  narrower stripes with ikat motifs at either end of each section. The one closest to the join contains narrow black and white patterned stripes, known as 'raja'. The 'raja' stripes are created using a floating warp. The dyes used are indigo (blue-black) and morinda citrifolia (red). [See original description for details.]",
            "primary": true
        },
        {
            "date": [
                {
                    "earliest": 2003,
                    "value": "2003-06-03",
                    "latest": 2003,
                    "primary": true
                }
            ],
            "source": "field notes written by Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve",
            "type": "original description",
            "value": "No 22-27 [2003.286-291]: Sarongs of women of wini Ga, hubi ae (greater blossom group) in Ledetadu, Pedaro, Mesara, West Savu. All women of wini Ga are entitled to the motif kobe morena. Those who are descendants of Mojo Lado are also entitled to the motif kobe molai. Those who are descendants of Wahi Hehe are entitled to both motifs above and also the motif wue jara. Those who are descendants of Ngera Mehe are entitled to all above and also the motif wila wiu. Collecting exemplary samples of one wini allows to reflect on the number of weavings a subgroup may own and to understand the evolution in the patterns and styles. They still can spin cotton and are able to use vegetable dyes. Some are open to knowledge about weavings and dyes, moreover they disclose their maternal genealogies to me. Eu Dane (alias Ina Keraba Lodo) is my best informant for wini Ga and one of the best weavers in Savu. \n Ei raja, hebe kobe hegai, hubi ae, wini Ga, Mesara. Handspun cotton, natural dyes. Edges red as middle seam. Raja stripes made of 10 threads (5x2). Dim: L: 166cm, weft: 83cm, l: 56cm.  Purchased in Mesara in 1999 at the house of Eu Dane. The piece is old and has been worn.  This is a variation on the kobe morena motif (Duggan 1997: 60; 2001: 36). The horizontal branches are open (female). Hegai means hook. I assume that it is simply a variation of the kobe motif. I received no history for this motif."
        },
        {
            "date": [
                {
                    "earliest": 2003,
                    "value": "2003-06-05",
                    "latest": 2003,
                    "primary": true
                }
            ],
            "source": "Spittler, Ute",
            "type": "detailed description",
            "value": "A woman's skirt made from cotton and dyed with vegetable dyes. The textile is old and had been worn prior to purchase in 1999. The cloth is made in 2 sections on a backstrap loom. 2 length are sewn together at one selvedge; one section is the mirror image of the other. The fabric is mainly warp-faced ikat, with ends doubled in the weft. [The patterning is described as it was woven (as stripes) rather than as worn (as bands).] All ikat patterned stripes consists of undyed warp ends on a red ground. At one selvedge (at the top and bottom of the skirt) is a broad ikat stripe, made up of 3 stripe sequence repeats. A larger, petalled motif, is created by facing motifs in ikat stripes bisected by a stripe of alternating blue-black, and speckled red and cream lines. These frame a wider red strip with a cream line at its centre. Each stripe sequence is framed by narrow, coloured stripes. Between this ikat section and the main ikat stripe is a blue-black stripe, bisected by a lighter coloured  stripe. The main ikat stripe contains a variation of the motif called 'kobe morena' with open branches (= female). The added term 'hegai' means hook, and could just denote a variation of the motif. The remaining section comprises three stripes of the petalled motif bisected by a thin blue-black line. This alternates with ikat stripes with a solid petalled motif, which is bisected by a  black and white pattern known as 'raja' is created with a floating warp. The dyes used are indigo (blue-black) and morinda citrifolia (red). [See original description for details.]"
        },
        {
            "date": [
                {
                    "earliest": 2003,
                    "value": "2003-06-05",
                    "latest": 2003,
                    "primary": true
                }
            ],
            "source": "Spittler, Ute",
            "type": "object description",
            "value": "A woman's skirt made from cotton and dyed with vegetable dyes. The textile is old and had been worn prior to purchase in 1999. The cloth is made in 2 sections and sewn together at one selvedge; one section is the mirror image of the other. The fabric is mainly warp-faced ikat. [The patterning is described as it was woven (as stripes) rather than as worn (as bands).] All ikat patterned stripes consists of undyed warp ends on a red ground. There are two blue-black stripes, bisected by a lighter coloured  stripe. The main ikat stripe stripe contains a variation of the motif called 'kobe morena' with open branches (= female). There is a set of  narrower stripes with ikat motifs at either end of each section. The one closest to the join contains narrow black and white patterned stripes, known as 'raja'. The 'raja' stripes are created using a floating warp. The dyes used are indigo (blue-black) and morinda citrifolia (red). [See original description for details.]"
        }
    ],
    "language": [
        "eng"
    ],
    "collection": "Anthropology",
    "type": {
        "sub_type": [
            "general"
        ],
        "scope": "WHOLE",
        "base": "object"
    },
    "component": [
        {
            "name": {
                "value": "section 2"
            },
            "measurements": {
                "display": "section 2: 21.811  x 31.5748 in.; 554 x 802 mm",
                "dimensions": [
                    {
                        "units": "in",
                        "dimension": "height",
                        "value": "21 13\/16"
                    },
                    {
                        "units": "mm",
                        "dimension": "height",
                        "value": "554"
                    },
                    {
                        "units": "in",
                        "dimension": "width",
                        "value": "31 9\/16"
                    },
                    {
                        "units": "mm",
                        "dimension": "width",
                        "value": "802"
                    }
                ]
            }
        },
        {
            "name": {
                "value": "section 1"
            },
            "measurements": {
                "display": "section 1: 22.0472  x 32.3622 in.; 560 x 822 mm",
                "dimensions": [
                    {
                        "units": "in",
                        "dimension": "height",
                        "value": "22 1\/16"
                    },
                    {
                        "units": "mm",
                        "dimension": "height",
                        "value": "560"
                    },
                    {
                        "units": "in",
                        "dimension": "width",
                        "value": "32 3\/8"
                    },
                    {
                        "units": "mm",
                        "dimension": "width",
                        "value": "822"
                    }
                ]
            }
        }
    ],
    "condition": [
        {
            "date": {
                "earliest": 2003,
                "value": "2003-06-26",
                "latest": 2003
            },
            "examiner": "MacKinnon, Emma",
            "value": "1: good"
        }
    ],
    "@admin": {
        "processed": 1744912892233,
        "sequence": 7732262,
        "uid": "hmc-object-118803",
        "added": 1663961612177,
        "stream": "collections-online",
        "id": "object-118803",
        "source": "hmc",
        "uuid": "40d5d65e-2659-3f92-b87a-f8c3763f41df"
    },
    "movable": "Y",
    "material": [
        {
            "type": "catalogue materials",
            "value": "cotton (textile); indigo; morinda",
            "primary": true
        }
    ],
    "legal": {
        "status": "permanent collection"
    },
    "name": [
        {
            "type": "catalogue name",
            "value": "skirt; textile; ei",
            "primary": true
        },
        {
            "@reference": {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "skirts"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "object name"
                        }
                    ],
                    "variation": 113783
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-term-502836",
                    "id": "term-502836",
                    "uuid": "845ac263-966f-3697-9d95-6fd085722688"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            "type": "object name"
        },
        {
            "@reference": {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "textiles (function unknown)"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "object name (local)"
                        }
                    ],
                    "variation": 144540
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-term-1015405",
                    "id": "term-1015405",
                    "uuid": "bd68ec78-073a-3aa1-b09f-f357db94c996"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            "type": "object name (local)"
        },
        {
            "type": "object name (local)"
        },
        {
            "type": "object name (Horniman Ethno.)",
            "value": "skirt"
        },
        {
            "type": "object name (unclassified)",
            "value": "textile"
        },
        {
            "type": "object name (local)",
            "value": "ei"
        }
    ],
    "options": {
        "item_count": "1",
        "flag4": "N",
        "flag3": "Y",
        "flag2": "N",
        "flag1": "N",
        "option2": "Source: collector: information common to all skirts in the collection: ikat frames are 120-150 cm long and 40-50 cm high; the fabric is woven on a backstrap loom. Mainly home grown cotton; often commercial cotton is used for the ikat warp sections. Please refer to original description for further information."
    },
    "appraisal": [
        {
            "source": "catalogue",
            "@entity": "lifecycle"
        }
    ],
    "term": [
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "skirts"
            },
            "@link": {
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "object name"
                    }
                ]
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-term-502836",
                "id": "term-502836",
                "uuid": "845ac263-966f-3697-9d95-6fd085722688"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        },
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "textiles (function unknown)"
            },
            "@link": {
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "object name (local)"
                    }
                ]
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-term-1015405",
                "id": "term-1015405",
                "uuid": "bd68ec78-073a-3aa1-b09f-f357db94c996"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        }
    ],
    "category": [
        {
            "type": "category1",
            "value": "Anthropology: Ethnography"
        }
    ],
    "cumulation": {
        "collector": [
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "collector"
                        }
                    ],
                    "attribution": {
                        "attributor": "curator"
                    }
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-agent-5582",
                    "id": "agent-5582",
                    "uuid": "feb154aa-03df-3831-93ef-3b7c98642d2d"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "source": "catalogue"
                },
                "name": [
                    {
                        "value": "Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve"
                    }
                ],
                "@entity": "literal"
            }
        ]
    },
    "physical": [
        {
            "note": "(AAT) associated documentation, 2003-06-03",
            "component": "overall",
            "term": "cotton (textile)",
            "descriptor": "material",
            "@reference": {
                "@entity": "literal"
            },
            "type": "material"
        },
        {
            "note": "(AAT) Spittler, Ute 2003-06-05",
            "component": "overall",
            "term": "morinda",
            "descriptor": "dye",
            "@reference": {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Morinda sp."
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "dye"
                        }
                    ]
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-term-1018236",
                    "id": "term-1018236",
                    "uuid": "aec6614c-0a69-3975-9e69-349616253039"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            "type": "dye"
        },
        {
            "note": "(AAT) Spittler, Ute 2003-06-05",
            "component": "overall",
            "term": "indigo",
            "descriptor": "dye",
            "@reference": {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "indigo"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "dye"
                        }
                    ]
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-term-1018233",
                    "id": "term-1018233",
                    "uuid": "21660ffb-7216-32c6-b164-4575ea0fa6e4"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            "type": "dye"
        }
    ],
    "facility": [
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "shE"
            },
            "@link": {
                "container": "Roll00324",
                "date": {
                    "earliest": 2016,
                    "value": "2016-09-15",
                    "latest": 2016
                },
                "duration": "3118.79",
                "level5": "004",
                "level4": "shE",
                "current": "Y",
                "last": {
                    "level4": "shE",
                    "location": "HMG - North Greenwich",
                    "level1": "Study Collections Centre",
                    "level3": "bay18",
                    "level2": "3\/1"
                },
                "location": "HMG - North Greenwich",
                "level1": "Study Collections Centre",
                "level3": "bay18",
                "level2": "3\/1"
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-facility-7633",
                "id": "facility-7633",
                "uuid": "88aa5dc5-1008-3d28-bbef-c16eaccad32f"
            },
            "@entity": "reference",
            "primary": true
        },
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "HMG - North Greenwich"
            },
            "@link": {
                "date": {
                    "earliest": 2003,
                    "value": "2003-08-28",
                    "latest": 2003
                },
                "level5": "000001",
                "level4": "shF",
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "historical"
                    }
                ],
                "last": {
                    "level4": "trolley",
                    "location": "Horniman Museum. Study Collections Centre",
                    "level1": "SCC",
                    "level2": "2\/0"
                },
                "purpose": "regular storage",
                "moved": {
                    "by": "Russell, Lynn"
                },
                "duration": "257",
                "current": "N",
                "location": "HMG - North Greenwich",
                "level1": "Study Collections Centre",
                "level3": "bay07",
                "level2": "3\/1"
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-facility-550",
                "id": "facility-550",
                "uuid": "a6a2a6a8-0897-383a-b876-7caa8bdc0fea"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        },
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "Layout Table 2"
            },
            "@link": {
                "date": {
                    "earliest": 2004,
                    "value": "2004-06-10",
                    "latest": 2004
                },
                "duration": "2",
                "current": "N",
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "historical"
                    }
                ],
                "last": {
                    "location": "Horniman Museum. Michael Horniman Building",
                    "level1": "MH",
                    "level2": "0\/1"
                },
                "purpose": "temporary storage",
                "moved": {
                    "by": "Curtis, Bill"
                },
                "location": "HMG - North Greenwich",
                "level1": "Study Collections Centre",
                "level3": "table",
                "level2": "1\/0"
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-facility-560",
                "id": "facility-560",
                "uuid": "9f045368-df1d-3b7a-aa38-43751f9b06bd"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        },
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "floor"
            },
            "@link": {
                "date": {
                    "earliest": 2004,
                    "value": "2004-05-10",
                    "latest": 2004
                },
                "duration": "4",
                "current": "N",
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "historical"
                    }
                ],
                "last": {
                    "level5": "00000F",
                    "level6": "000001",
                    "location": "Horniman Museum. Study Collections Centre",
                    "level1": "SCC",
                    "level3": "000007",
                    "level2": "3\/1"
                },
                "purpose": "temporary storage",
                "moved": {
                    "by": "Curtis, Bill"
                },
                "location": "HMG - North Greenwich",
                "level1": "Study Collections Centre",
                "level3": "floor",
                "level2": "1\/0"
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-facility-673",
                "id": "facility-673",
                "uuid": "656c8c38-37a0-357c-b8e3-bd5fd26bc7c5"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        },
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "Layout Space"
            },
            "@link": {
                "date": {
                    "earliest": 2004,
                    "value": "2004-05-13",
                    "latest": 2004
                },
                "duration": "29",
                "current": "N",
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "historical"
                    }
                ],
                "last": {
                    "level4": "floor",
                    "location": "Horniman Museum. Study Collections Centre",
                    "level1": "SCC",
                    "level2": "1\/0"
                },
                "purpose": "Exhibition",
                "moved": {
                    "by": "Curtis, Bill"
                },
                "location": "HMG - Forest Hill",
                "level1": "Michael Horniman Building",
                "level2": "Layout Space"
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-facility-12795",
                "id": "facility-12795",
                "uuid": "4069064f-2c3d-3e5a-821d-ba16a27de849"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        },
        {
            "summary": {
                "title": "shE"
            },
            "note": [
                {
                    "value": "Location automatically updated from SCC; 3\/1; 000018; ; 00000E; 000001 as part of rationalisation of SCC locations, Rupert Shepherd,  2012-06-30."
                }
            ],
            "@link": {
                "container": "Roll:3\/1-18-E-001a",
                "date": {
                    "earliest": 2005,
                    "value": "2005-03-08",
                    "latest": 2005
                },
                "level4": "shE",
                "role": [
                    {
                        "value": "historical"
                    }
                ],
                "last": {
                    "level6": "table",
                    "location": "Horniman Museum. Study Collections Centre",
                    "level1": "SCC",
                    "level2": "1\/1"
                },
                "purpose": "regular storage",
                "moved": {
                    "by": "Russell, Lynn"
                },
                "duration": "4210",
                "current": "N",
                "location": "HMG - North Greenwich",
                "level1": "Study Collections Centre",
                "level3": "bay18",
                "level2": "3\/1"
            },
            "@admin": {
                "uid": "hmc-facility-7633",
                "id": "facility-7633",
                "uuid": "88aa5dc5-1008-3d28-bbef-c16eaccad32f"
            },
            "@entity": "reference"
        }
    ],
    "creation": {
        "date": [
            {
                "source": "catalogue",
                "earliest": 1999,
                "value": "before 1999",
                "latest": 1999
            },
            {
                "note": [
                    {
                        "value": "The majority of the samples collected here are contemporary weavings (made in the last 10 years). ; see field notes, p. 4, but for this object specific notes say: Purchased in Mesara in 1999...This piece is old...; see notes p.8"
                    }
                ],
                "earliest": 1999,
                "value": "before 1999",
                "latest": 1999
            }
        ],
        "place": [
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Mesara"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "made or collected"
                        }
                    ],
                    "attribution": {
                        "date": [
                            {
                                "earliest": 2003,
                                "value": "2003",
                                "latest": 2003,
                                "primary": true
                            }
                        ],
                        "attributor": "Duggan, Genevi\u00e8ve",
                        "source": "associated documentation"
                    }
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-place-2756",
                    "id": "place-2756",
                    "uuid": "31110b81-90de-3d21-ac21-216d05feb298"
                },
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Indonesia"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "role": [
                        {
                            "value": "made or collected"
                        }
                    ],
                    "locale": "Mesara, Savu, Nusa Tenggara Timur"
                },
                "@admin": {
                    "uid": "hmc-place-209",
                    "id": "place-209",
                    "uuid": "b913a2f9-0105-3c3b-b907-07eed4cb0f46"
                },
                "historical": true,
                "@entity": "reference"
            },
            {
                "summary": {
                    "title": "Mesara, Savu, Lesser Sunda Islands, Indonesia, Southeast Asia, Asia"
                },
                "@link": {
                    "source": "catalogue"
                },
                "name": [
                    {
                        "value": "Mesara, Savu, Lesser Sunda Islands, Indonesia, Southeast Asia, Asia"
                    }
                ],
                "@entity": "literal"
            }
        ],
        "@entity": "lifecycle"
    },
    "measurements": {
        "display": "overall: 63.9764  x 22.0472 in.; 1625 x 560 mm",
        "count": "1",
        "dimensions": [
            {
                "type": "catalogue dimensions",
                "value": "overall: 63.9764  x 22.0472 in.; 1625 x 560 mm; section 1: 22.0472  x 32.3622 in.; 560 x 822 mm; section 2: 21.811  x 31.5748 in.; 554 x 802 mm",
                "primary": true
            },
            {
                "units": "in",
                "dimension": "height",
                "value": "64"
            },
            {
                "units": "mm",
                "dimension": "height",
                "value": "1625"
            },
            {
                "units": "in",
                "dimension": "width",
                "value": "22 1\/16"
            },
            {
                "units": "mm",
                "dimension": "width",
                "value": "560"
            }
        ]
    }
}