{ "instructions": [ { "date": [ { "earliest": 1999, "value": "1999-07-15", "latest": 1999, "primary": true } ], "note": "FCOPE", "instruction": "red", "type": "HANDLING STATUS" } ], "note": [ { "type": "catalogue note", "value": "Modern. Gift from ILEA Costume Loans to the Education Handling Collection.\nIncorrectly accessioned to the Main Collection. Object number assigned HC number by LM, 13\/7\/17\nObject information provided by Calvin Tatara, Curator - Cha Chai Tea - China and Hong Kong. Information concerning manufacture and silk production was already in the mimsy record and not added or reviewed by Cal. (IPATEL, 23.10.24)\n\nManufacture continued: \n A single cocoon is spun from approx 1000 metres of silk thread and about 2000 cocoons are needed to make one silk dress. The Bombyx mori moth is now extinct in the wild and only exists in captivity for silk production. Under this human influence it has evolved to be incapable of flight and only able to crawl a short distance. Eggs hatch after about 20 days and the larvae that emerge begin to feed immediately on Mulberry tree leaves, which is their only food. They eat constantly for 25 days during which time they grow to 10,000 times their hatchling weight. Their silk producing glands make up approximately one quarter of their body weight. During this time they shed their skin 4 times and the periods between moltings are known as instars. The worm stops eating after the 5th instar and starts to produce liquid silk from both of its silk glands at the same time. The worm also produces a sticky substance called sericin which binds the two secretions together, as they harden on contact with the air, into a single silk thread. On wooden frames provided by the silk farmer it first spins a structure to support the cocoon. The cocoon is spun from the outside inwards and although it is made from a single thread, approximately 1000 metres long, it is completed within 2 -3 days. The worms require silence during this time because if they are disturbed they stop spinning and when they start again the thread is no longer continuous. Silk farmers can store the eggs in a cool place and then incubate them when they want to hatch them. Most of the pupae inside the cocoons are not allowed to mature because they would eat their way out and damage the thread. The pupae are killed either by roasting the cocoons in a hot oven, steaming them or fumigating them. The cocoons are then put into hot water to dissolve the sericin and the thread begins to unravel. A single thread is not strong enough to use so as many as ten are wound onto a reel together. At this stage the product is called raw silk and is sold on to be woven." } ], "loan": { "value": "N" }, "description": [ { "type": "catalogue description", "value": "Sleeveless black silk with ties at sides, embroidered with dragons, sea and mountains. The clouds surrounding the edge are 'blessings for luck'. The mountains and sea represent the territory of the empire and a blessing for its continuity. \n\nIn the Qing Dynasty of China, clothing was used to represent social status, seperating the Bannerman and the Civilians. This style of robe with embroidered dragons got their name during the Qing dynasty and became part of the official attire worn exclusively by the emperor. The robe has two dragons in the rising position with five finger claws which only the emperor could wear. It was acceptable for other memebers such as kings, dukes and Bannerman to wear a dragon with four or three fingers, with permission from the emperor. The square shape in the chest is called as Sabirgi (Chinese: Buzi), which refers to a Mandarin square, or a rank badge. Mandarin's rank goes from Ninth (the lowest) to First (the highest). The image in this square is a peafowl which refers to a Third Rank badge. Both Bannerman and civilian could be a mandarin if they fit the requirement. \n\nThe textile is a copy, mixing different costumes of the Manchurian-Qing Dynasty of China. The collar and buttons are in a traditional Manchus design (but not the tailoring). Behind the collar is a pattern commonly found in Hanfu (chinese clothing) or Hakka clothing. The parallel pattern along the edge of the design is common for East Asian dress, interior design for walls and floors, and architectural decoration.", "primary": true }, { "historical": true, "type": "description", "value": "Sleeveless black silk with ties at sides, embroidered with dragons, sea and mountains. Modern. Gift from ILEA Costume Loans.\n\nManufacture continued: \nThe Bombyx mori moth is now extinct in the wild and only exists in captivity for silk production. Under this human influence it has evolved to be incapable of flight and only able to crawl a short distance. Eggs hatch after about 20 days and the larvae that emerge begin to feed immediately on Mulberry tree leaves, which is their only food. They eat constantly for 25 days during which time they grow to 10,000 times their hatchling weight. Their silk producing glands make up approximately one quarter of their body weight. During this time they shed their skin 4 times and the periods between moltings are known as instars. The worm stops eating after the 5th instar and starts to produce liquid silk from both of its silk glands at the same time. The worm also produces a sticky substance called sericin which binds the two secretions together, as they harden on contact with the air, into a single silk thread. On wooden frames provided by the silk farmer it first spins a structure to support the cocoon. The cocoon is spun from the outside inwards and although it is made from a single thread, approximately 1000 metres long, it is completed within 2 -3 days. The worms require silence during this time because if they are disturbed they stop spinning and when they start again the thread is no longer continuous. Silk farmers can store the eggs in a cool place and then incubate them when they want to hatch them. Most of the pupae inside the cocoons are not allowed to mature because they would eat their way out and damage the thread. The pupae are killed either by roasting the cocoons in a hot oven, steaming them or fumigating them. The cocoons are then put into hot water to dissolve the sericin and the thread begins to unravel. A single thread is not strong enough to use so as many as ten are wound onto a reel together. At this stage the product is called raw silk and is sold on to be woven.\n\nCONNECTED STORIES: \nThe resemblance of this jacket to the dragon robe is due to the use of colours and embroidered images that are very symbolic. \n\nThe patterns of the sun or stars represents the light of the throne, the mountains are viewed to be synonymous to the idea of stability, the dragons represent the ability to adapt to changes and the water represented purity and cleanliness. \n\nIn traditional Chinese culture darker colours were favoured over lighter ones so that the main colour of ceremonial clothing tended to be dark. This was then accentuated with the colourful embroidery designs. Lighter colours were more frequently used by poorer people for their everyday clothing.\nThe Chinese associate different colours with different seasons,\nGreen- Spring, Red- Summer, White- Autumn, Black- Winter.\n\nBOOKS: again there is more than 3 books...\n\nRELATED OBJECTS: HOB-Chinese clothing in the costume section, Wardrobe No XXX, Disc Box \u2013 Chinese Costume (Valerie's project is leaving a legacy of 2? More themed China boxes?) \nHOB-Chinese Writing Implements, Case XXX \nSee Joanna Yeung's Chinese object research for links and more detailed info\nSee Valarie Chang's and Yu Chu's research for artist\/community sessions with objects. Music gallery \u2013 do we have Chinese instruments or musical toys on display? JC\/CR \u2013 Data Cleaners?" }, { "historical": true, "type": "description", "value": "Sleeveless black silk with ties at sides, embroidered with dragons, sea and mountains. Modern. Gift from ILEA Costume Loans.\n\nMANUFACTURE MORE: \nThe Bombyx mori moth is now extinct in the wild and only exists in captivity for silk production. Under this human influence it has evolved to be incapable of flight and only able to crawl a short distance. Eggs hatch after about 20 days and the larvae that emerge begin to feed immediately on Mulberry tree leaves, which is their only food. They eat constantly for 25 days during which time they grow to 10,000 times their hatchling weight. Their silk producing glands make up approximately one quarter of their body weight. During this time they shed their skin 4 times and the periods between moltings are known as instars. The worm stops eating after the 5th instar and starts to produce liquid silk from both of its silk glands at the same time. The worm also produces a sticky substance called sericin which binds the two secretions together, as they harden on contact with the air, into a single silk thread. On wooden frames provided by the silk farmer it first spins a structure to support the cocoon. The cocoon is spun from the outside inwards and although it is made from a single thread, approximately 1000 metres long, it is completed within 2 -3 days. The worms require silence during this time because if they are disturbed they stop spinning and when they start again the thread is no longer continuous. Silk farmers can store the eggs in a cool place and then incubate them when they want to hatch them. Most of the pupae inside the cocoons are not allowed to mature because they would eat their way out and damage the thread. The pupae are killed either by roasting the cocoons in a hot oven, steaming them or fumigating them. The cocoons are then put into hot water to dissolve the sericin and the thread begins to unravel. A single thread is not strong enough to use so as many as ten are wound onto a reel together. At this stage the product is called raw silk and is sold on to be woven.\n\nCONNECTED STORIES: \nThe resemblance of this jacket to the dragon robe is due to the use of colours and embroidered images that are very symbolic. \n\nThe patterns of the sun or stars represents the light of the throne, the mountains are viewed to be synonymous to the idea of stability, the dragons represent the ability to adapt to changes and the water represented purity and cleanliness. \n\nIn traditional Chinese culture darker colours were favoured over lighter ones so that the main colour of ceremonial clothing tended to be dark. This was then accentuated with the colourful embroidery designs. Lighter colours were more frequently used by poorer people for their everyday clothing.\nThe Chinese associate different colours with different seasons,\nGreen- Spring, Red- Summer, White- Autumn, Black- Winter.\n\nBOOKS: again there is more than 3 books...\n\nRELATED OBJECTS: HOB-Chinese clothing in the costume section, Wardrobe No XXX, Disc Box \u2013 Chinese Costume (Valerie's project is leaving a legacy of 2? More themed China boxes?) \nHOB-Chinese Writing Implements, Case XXX \nSee Joanna Yeung's Chinese object research for links and more detailed info\nSee Valarie Chang's and Yu Chu's research for artist\/community sessions with objects. Music gallery \u2013 do we have Chinese instruments or musical toys on display? JC\/CR \u2013 Data Cleaners?" }, { "historical": true, "type": "manufacture basic (online)", "value": "Chinese silk embroidery developed alongside cloth production and was a skill that girls were taught as a social skill from about the age of seven. At her marriage, she would give embroidered gifts to family and friends. Single girls might give a gift of embroidery, such as a small pouch, to a man as a token of her love. Historically there are four main types of embroidery in China each of which are from different regions. They are the following: 'Su' from Jiangsu, 'Xiang' from Hunan, 'Shu' from Sichuan and 'Yue' from Guangdong.\n\nSilk production:\n\nThe Bombyx mori moth spins a cocoon from a single thread of silk. The silk is produced inside its body as a liquid which hardens on contact with the air. The cocoon is unwound in hot water to dissolve the sericin which binds it together. A single cocoon is spun from approximately 1000 metres of silk thread and about 2000 cocoons are needed to make one silk dress." }, { "historical": true, "type": "manufacture more (online)", "value": "The Bombyx mori moth is now extinct in the wild and only exists in captivity for silk production. Under this human influence, it has evolved to be incapable of flight and it is only able to crawl a short distance. Eggs hatch after about 20 days and the larvae that emerge begin to feed immediately on Mulberry tree leaves which is their only food. \n\nThey eat constantly for 25 days during which time they grow to 10,000 times their hatchling weight. Their silk producing glands make up approximately one quarter of their body weight. During this time, they shed their skin four times and the periods between moltings are known as instars. The worm stops eating after the fifth instar and starts to produce liquid silk from both of its silk glands at the same time. The worm also produces a sticky substance called sericin which binds the two secretions together as they harden on contact with the air into a single silk thread. \n\nOn wooden frames provided by the silk farmer, it first spins a structure to support the cocoon. The cocoon is spun from the outside inwards and although it is made from a single thread, approximately 1000 metres long, it is completed within two to three days. The worms require silence during this time because if they are disturbed, they stop spinning and when they start again, the thread is no longer continuous. \n\nSilk farmers can store the eggs in a cool place and then incubate them when they want to hatch them. Most of the pupae inside the cocoons are not allowed to mature because they would eat their way out and damage the thread. The pupae are killed either by roasting the cocoons in a hot oven, steaming them or fumigating them. The cocoons are then put into hot water to dissolve the sericin and the thread begins to unravel. A single thread is not strong enough to use so as many as ten are wound onto a reel together. At this stage, the product is called raw silk and is sold on to be woven." }, { "historical": true, "type": "description", "value": "Sleeveless black silk with ties at sides, embroidered with dragons, sea and mountains. Modern. Gift from ILEA Costume Loans.\n\nManufacture continued: \nThe Bombyx mori moth is now extinct in the wild and only exists in captivity for silk production. Under this human influence it has evolved to be incapable of flight and only able to crawl a short distance. Eggs hatch after about 20 days and the larvae that emerge begin to feed immediately on Mulberry tree leaves, which is their only food. They eat constantly for 25 days during which time they grow to 10,000 times their hatchling weight. Their silk producing glands make up approximately one quarter of their body weight. During this time they shed their skin 4 times and the periods between moltings are known as instars. The worm stops eating after the 5th instar and starts to produce liquid silk from both of its silk glands at the same time. The worm also produces a sticky substance called sericin which binds the two secretions together, as they harden on contact with the air, into a single silk thread. On wooden frames provided by the silk farmer it first spins a structure to support the cocoon. The cocoon is spun from the outside inwards and although it is made from a single thread, approximately 1000 metres long, it is completed within 2 -3 days. The worms require silence during this time because if they are disturbed they stop spinning and when they start again the thread is no longer continuous. Silk farmers can store the eggs in a cool place and then incubate them when they want to hatch them. Most of the pupae inside the cocoons are not allowed to mature because they would eat their way out and damage the thread. The pupae are killed either by roasting the cocoons in a hot oven, steaming them or fumigating them. The cocoons are then put into hot water to dissolve the sericin and the thread begins to unravel. A single thread is not strong enough to use so as many as ten are wound onto a reel together. At this stage the product is called raw silk and is sold on to be woven.\n\nBOOKS: again there is more than 3 books...\n\nRELATED OBJECTS: HOB-Chinese clothing in the costume section, Wardrobe No XXX, Disc Box \u2013 Chinese Costume (Valerie's project is leaving a legacy of 2? More themed China boxes?) \nHOB-Chinese Writing Implements, Case XXX \nSee Joanna Yeung's Chinese object research for links and more detailed info\nSee Valarie Chang's and Yu Chu's research for artist\/community sessions with objects. Music gallery \u2013 do we have Chinese instruments or musical toys on display? JC\/CR \u2013 Data Cleaners?" }, { "attribution": { "attributor": "Maycock, Lucy" }, "historical": true, "type": "description", "value": "Sleeveless black silk with ties at sides, embroidered with dragons, sea and mountains. Modern. Gift from ILEA Costume Loans to the Education Handling Collection.\n\nManufacture continued: \nThe Bombyx mori moth is now extinct in the wild and only exists in captivity for silk production. Under this human influence it has evolved to be incapable of flight and only able to crawl a short distance. Eggs hatch after about 20 days and the larvae that emerge begin to feed immediately on Mulberry tree leaves, which is their only food. They eat constantly for 25 days during which time they grow to 10,000 times their hatchling weight. Their silk producing glands make up approximately one quarter of their body weight. During this time they shed their skin 4 times and the periods between moltings are known as instars. The worm stops eating after the 5th instar and starts to produce liquid silk from both of its silk glands at the same time. The worm also produces a sticky substance called sericin which binds the two secretions together, as they harden on contact with the air, into a single silk thread. On wooden frames provided by the silk farmer it first spins a structure to support the cocoon. The cocoon is spun from the outside inwards and although it is made from a single thread, approximately 1000 metres long, it is completed within 2 -3 days. The worms require silence during this time because if they are disturbed they stop spinning and when they start again the thread is no longer continuous. Silk farmers can store the eggs in a cool place and then incubate them when they want to hatch them. Most of the pupae inside the cocoons are not allowed to mature because they would eat their way out and damage the thread. The pupae are killed either by roasting the cocoons in a hot oven, steaming them or fumigating them. The cocoons are then put into hot water to dissolve the sericin and the thread begins to unravel. A single thread is not strong enough to use so as many as ten are wound onto a reel together. At this stage the product is called raw silk and is sold on to be woven.\n\nBOOKS: again there is more than 3 books...\n\nRELATED OBJECTS: HOB-Chinese clothing in the costume section, Wardrobe No XXX, Disc Box - Chinese Costume (Valerie's project is leaving a legacy of 2? More themed China boxes?) \nHOB-Chinese Writing Implements, Case XXX \nSee Joanna Yeung's Chinese object research for links and more detailed info\nSee Valarie Chang's and Yu Chu's research for artist\/community sessions with objects. Music gallery \u2013 do we have Chinese instruments or musical toys on display? JC\/CR \u2013 Data Cleaners?" }, { "historical": true, "type": "use", "value": "It is worn as a decorative item of clothing and to show the wearer's status." }, { "historical": true, "type": "use", "value": "How is it used?\nTraditionally, Chinese clothes represented social status. \nThe upper classes tended to wear long robes and peasants generally wore jackets and trousers. This is of course no longer the case. \n\nThis jacket is in a tabard style which slips over the head and is tied at each side at the waist.\n\n\nWho is it used by and why them?\nThis jacket is a modern piece with a modern design. However it resembles and has been made using the same style of patterns found in the early style of the Zhou Dynasty Dragon robe, otherwise known as the Longpao. This style of robe with embroidered dragons got their name during the Qing dynasty and became part of the official attire worn exclusively by the emperor. It was also acceptable for members of the Imperial Court and court officials to wear the dragon robe. Dragons represented the ability to adapt to change." }, { "historical": true, "type": "use", "value": "The resemblance of this jacket to the dragon robe is due to the use of colours and embroidered images that are very symbolic. \n \nThe patterns of the sun or stars represent the light of the throne, the mountains are viewed to be synonymous to the idea of stability, the dragons represent the ability to adapt to changes and the water represent purity and cleanliness. \n \nIn traditional Chinese culture darker colours were favoured over lighter ones so that the main colour of ceremonial clothing tended to be dark. This was then accentuated with the colourful embroidery designs. Lighter colours were more frequently used by poorer people for their everyday clothing. \n \nThe Chinese associate different colours with different seasons, \ngreen- spring, red- summer, white- autumn, black- winter." }, { "historical": true, "type": "commentary", "value": "It is worn as a decorative item of clothing and to show the wearer\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s status. How is it used? Traditionally, Chinese clothes represented your social status. The upper classes tended to wear long robes and peasants generally wore jackets and trousers. This is of course no longer the case. This jacket is in a tabard style which slips over the head and is tied at each side at the waist. Who is it used by and why them? This jacket is a modern piece with a modern design. However it resembles and has been made using the same style of patterns found in the early style of the Zhou Dynasty Dragon robe, otherwise known as the Longpao. This style of robe with embroidered dragons got their name during the Qing dynasty and became part of the official attire worn exclusively by the emperor. It was also acceptable for members of the Imperial court and court officials to wear the dragon robe. Dragons represented the ability to adapt to change. The resemblance of this jacket to the dragon robe is due to the use of colours and embroidered images that are very symbolic. The patterns of the sun or stars represents the light of the throne, the mountains are viewed to be synonymous to the idea of stability, the dragons represent the ability to adapt to changes and the water represented purity and cleanliness. In traditional Chinese culture darker colours were favoured over lighter ones so that the main colour of ceremonial clothing tended to be dark. This was then accentuated with the colourful embroidery designs. Lighter colours were more frequently used by poorer people for their everyday clothing. The Chinese associate different colours with different seasons, Green- Spring, Red- Summer, White- Autumn, Black- Winter." }, { "attribution": { "attributor": "Patel, India" }, "historical": true, "type": "description", "value": "Sleeveless black silk with ties at sides, embroidered with dragons, sea and mountains. The clouds surrounding the edge are 'blessings for luck'. There are two dragons in a rising position with five fingers on the claw, which only the emperor could wear. The mountains and sea represent the territory of the empure and a blessing for its continuity. \n\nManufacture continued: \nThe Bombyx mori moth is now extinct in the wild and only exists in captivity for silk production. Under this human influence it has evolved to be incapable of flight and only able to crawl a short distance. Eggs hatch after about 20 days and the larvae that emerge begin to feed immediately on Mulberry tree leaves, which is their only food. They eat constantly for 25 days during which time they grow to 10,000 times their hatchling weight. Their silk producing glands make up approximately one quarter of their body weight. During this time they shed their skin 4 times and the periods between moltings are known as instars. The worm stops eating after the 5th instar and starts to produce liquid silk from both of its silk glands at the same time. The worm also produces a sticky substance called sericin which binds the two secretions together, as they harden on contact with the air, into a single silk thread. On wooden frames provided by the silk farmer it first spins a structure to support the cocoon. The cocoon is spun from the outside inwards and although it is made from a single thread, approximately 1000 metres long, it is completed within 2 -3 days. The worms require silence during this time because if they are disturbed they stop spinning and when they start again the thread is no longer continuous. Silk farmers can store the eggs in a cool place and then incubate them when they want to hatch them. Most of the pupae inside the cocoons are not allowed to mature because they would eat their way out and damage the thread. The pupae are killed either by roasting the cocoons in a hot oven, steaming them or fumigating them. The cocoons are then put into hot water to dissolve the sericin and the thread begins to unravel. A single thread is not strong enough to use so as many as ten are wound onto a reel together. At this stage the product is called raw silk and is sold on to be woven." }, { "attribution": { "attributor": "Patel, India" }, "historical": true, "type": "description", "value": "Sleeveless black silk with ties at sides, embroidered with dragons, sea and mountains. The clouds surrounding the edge are 'blessings for luck'. There are two dragons in a rising position with five fingers on the claw, which only the emperor could wear. The mountains and sea represent the territory of the empire and a blessing for its continuity. \n\nManufacture continued: \nThe Bombyx mori moth is now extinct in the wild and only exists in captivity for silk production. Under this human influence it has evolved to be incapable of flight and only able to crawl a short distance. Eggs hatch after about 20 days and the larvae that emerge begin to feed immediately on Mulberry tree leaves, which is their only food. They eat constantly for 25 days during which time they grow to 10,000 times their hatchling weight. Their silk producing glands make up approximately one quarter of their body weight. During this time they shed their skin 4 times and the periods between moltings are known as instars. The worm stops eating after the 5th instar and starts to produce liquid silk from both of its silk glands at the same time. The worm also produces a sticky substance called sericin which binds the two secretions together, as they harden on contact with the air, into a single silk thread. On wooden frames provided by the silk farmer it first spins a structure to support the cocoon. The cocoon is spun from the outside inwards and although it is made from a single thread, approximately 1000 metres long, it is completed within 2 -3 days. The worms require silence during this time because if they are disturbed they stop spinning and when they start again the thread is no longer continuous. Silk farmers can store the eggs in a cool place and then incubate them when they want to hatch them. Most of the pupae inside the cocoons are not allowed to mature because they would eat their way out and damage the thread. The pupae are killed either by roasting the cocoons in a hot oven, steaming them or fumigating them. The cocoons are then put into hot water to dissolve the sericin and the thread begins to unravel. A single thread is not strong enough to use so as many as ten are wound onto a reel together. At this stage the product is called raw silk and is sold on to be woven." }, { "attribution": { "attributor": "Patel, India" }, "historical": true, "type": "description", "value": "Sleeveless black silk with ties at sides, embroidered with dragons, sea and mountains. The clouds surrounding the edge are 'blessings for luck'. There are two dragons in a rising position with five fingers on the claw, which only the emperor could wear. The mountains and sea represent the territory of the empire and a blessing for its continuity. \nThe textile is a copy, mixing different costumes of the Manchurian-Qing Dynasty of China. The collar and buttons are in a traditional Manchus design (but not the tailoring). Behind the collar is a pattern commonly found in Hanfu (chinese clothing) or Hakka clothing." }, { "date": [ { "earliest": 2024, "value": "2024-11-05", "latest": 2024, "primary": true } ], "note": [ { "value": "Object information provided by Calvin Tatara, Curator - Cha Chai Tea - China and Hong Kong. Information concerning manufacture and silk production was already in the mimsy record and not added or reviewed by Cal. (IPATEL, 23.10.24)" } ], "attribution": { "date": [ { "earliest": 2024, "value": "2024-11-05", "latest": 2024, "primary": true } ], "attributor": "Patel, India" }, "type": "description", "value": "Sleeveless black silk with ties at sides, embroidered with dragons, sea and mountains. The clouds surrounding the edge are 'blessings for luck'. The mountains and sea represent the territory of the empire and a blessing for its continuity. \n\nIn the Qing Dynasty of China, clothing was used to represent social status, seperating the Bannerman and the Civilians. This style of robe with embroidered dragons got their name during the Qing dynasty and became part of the official attire worn exclusively by the emperor. The robe has two dragons in the rising position with five finger claws which only the emperor could wear. It was acceptable for other memebers such as kings, dukes and Bannerman to wear a dragon with four or three fingers, with permission from the emperor. The square shape in the chest is called as Sabirgi (Chinese: Buzi), which refers to a Mandarin square, or a rank badge. Mandarin's rank goes from Ninth (the lowest) to First (the highest). The image in this square is a peafowl which refers to a Third Rank badge. Both Bannerman and civilian could be a mandarin if they fit the requirement. \n\nThe textile is a copy, mixing different costumes of the Manchurian-Qing Dynasty of China. The collar and buttons are in a traditional Manchus design (but not the tailoring). Behind the collar is a pattern commonly found in Hanfu (chinese clothing) or Hakka clothing. The parallel pattern along the edge of the design is common for East Asian dress, interior design for walls and floors, and architectural decoration." } ], "language": [ "eng" ], "type": { "sub_type": [ "general" ], "scope": "WHOLE", "base": "object" }, "legal": { "status": "handling collection" }, "options": { "item_count": "1", "option7": "Anthropology", "option5": "Clothes: clothes", "use": "Traditionally, clothing was used to represent social status. In the Quing Dynasty of China, despite different ethnic groups living in the empire, they had a simplified classification among the Bannerman and the Civilians. The clothing of both classes were fixed. This style of robe with embroidered dragons got their name during the Qing dynasty and became part of the official attire worn exclusively by the emperor. The robe has two dragons in the rising position with five finger claws which only the emperor could wear. It was acceptable for other memebers such as kings, dukes and Bannerman to wear a dragon with four or three fingers, with permission from the emperor. The square shape in the chest is called as Sabirgi (Chinese: Buzi), which refers to a Mandarin square, or a rank badge. Mandarin's rank goes from Ninth (the lowest) to First (the highest). The image in this square is a peafowl which refers to a Third Rank badge. Both Bannermn and civilian could be a mandarin if they fit the requirement.", "flag4": "N", "option6": "Tilden, J. (1996) 'Silk and Stone - The Art of Asia' ISBN 1898113203.; \nHarris, J. (1993) '5000 Years of Textiles' ISBN 0714117153.; \nWhitfield, S. (1999) 'Life Along the Silk Road' ISBN 0719557577.; \nhttp:\/\/www.chinatour360.com; \nhttp:\/\/www.orientalembroidery.com; \nhttp:\/\/www.silkroadcn.com", "flag3": "N", "flag2": "N", "flag1": "N", "option3": "ce9", "system_count": "0", "option2": "Chinese silk embroidery developed alongside cloth production and was a skill that girls were taught as a social skill from about the age of seven. At her marriage she would give embroidered gifts to family and friends. Single girls might give a gift of embroidery, such as a small pouch, to a man as a token of her love. Historically there are four main types of embroidery in China each from different regions. They are; \u2018Su\u2019 from Jiangsu, \u2018Xiang\u2019 from Hunan, \u2018Shu\u2019 from Sichuan and \u2018Yue\u2019 from Guangdong. Silk production: The Bombyx mori moth spins a cocoon form a single thread of silk. The silk is produced inside its body as a liquid which hardens on contact with the air. The cocoon is unwound in hot water to dissolve the sericin which binds it together. Manufacture continued in notes field.", "option10": "Community Education: Hands on Costume; Schools: Textiles from Around the World" }, "appraisal": [ { "source": "catalogue", "@entity": "lifecycle" } ], "term": [ { "summary": { "title": "Chinese Peoples" }, "@link": { "role": [ { "value": "maker or user" } ] }, "@admin": { "uid": "hmc-term-500577", "id": "term-500577", "uuid": "03bb9d9b-1372-3268-839f-8d553f94d347" }, "@entity": "reference" }, { "summary": { "title": "jackets" }, "@link": { "role": [ { "value": "object name (Horniman Ethno.)" } ], "attribution": { "date": [ { "earliest": 1999, "value": "15-Jul-99", "latest": 1999, "primary": true } ], "attributor": "Horniman Education Centre" } }, "@admin": { "uid": "hmc-term-508472", "id": "term-508472", "uuid": "c833ec02-7533-3402-b776-cab586d5cddc" }, "@entity": "reference" }, { "summary": { "title": "shell" }, "@link": { "role": [ { "value": "classified as" } ] }, "@admin": { "uid": "hmc-term-1016308", "id": "term-1016308", "uuid": "d70dcb44-62ad-3e14-b299-ecce51efdadb" }, "@entity": "reference" } ], "physical": [ { "note": "Cope, Fay 1999-07-15", "component": "overall", "term": "complete", "descriptor": "completeness", "@reference": { "@entity": "literal" }, "type": "completeness" }, { "component": "overall", "term": "silk", "descriptor": "material", "@reference": { "summary": { "title": "silk" }, "@link": { "role": [ { "value": "material" } ] }, "@admin": { "uid": "hmc-term-1015464", "id": "term-1015464", "uuid": "738f5b46-31b4-3e54-bb44-daec3f0bd906" }, "@entity": "reference" }, "type": "material" } ], "creation": { "place": [ { "summary": { "title": "China" }, "@admin": { "uid": "hmc-place-162", "id": "place-162", "uuid": "431d00e5-de31-373e-8e45-f3d2bfdb51ed" }, "@entity": "reference" }, { "summary": { "title": "China, East Asia; 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