robe; paranja

Robe; black velvet decorated with embroidered motifs in white and green – arched panels of mihrab and running geometrics. The facing is a heavy silk band embroidered with geometric, squared ‘ram’s horns’ in white on bottle-green with black parallel lines (perhaps tablet weave). With tassels attached to a pink band and fastened with a large pearl shell button on each breast. The tassels are in green, pink, yellow and white and blue – six on the left side and six on the right; with dark-green fringes at the top and bottom of the ‘breast motifs’. The tapered sleeves are joined behind. Each cuff is hemmed with a green band containing white geometric motifs and pink coral tubular beads. Higher up the sleeves are decorated with oval (? boteh) motifs, two in green and white, ending in tassels with a white band and black ribbed appliqué velvet inside; with three pendant tassels: two ochre and one pink with black and white attachments. Lined with printed cotton cloth: pink and white flowers on pink-red in the upper three-quarters and a panel of ikat in ivory, red, blue and black on the lower part. The heavy white stitching of the white embroidery is taken through onto the lining. With two support bands of brown cotton attached to the inside neck. Said to date from the 1920s when veiling was abolished by the Soviet authorities.

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